Uncover Spain’s Pure Wines on a Journey Via This Gorgeous Area

The air was thick with the scent of yeast and morning dew. Julien Ben Hamou López, the 38-year-old vintner behind Bodegas Coruña del Conde, a family-owned property in northern Spain, led us by way of a darkish tunnel that was stacked with dusty, unlabeled bottles of pure wines. López informed our group of 9 how the traditional Romans had used the tunnels as escape routes from invaders, then grabbed a number of of the mysterious bottles, wiped off the condensation, and led us out into the daylight to style them. 

This was the primary of a number of vineyard visits organized by Choices de la Viña, a boutique importer began in Brooklyn that makes a speciality of natural and low-intervention wines from the Iberian Peninsula. Based by Álvaro de la Viña, a gregarious entrepreneur from Spain, and his spouse, the corporate started main journeys as a means for connoisseurs to fulfill a few of Spain’s high pure vintners.

Within the spring, I joined a bunch of American wine sellers and sommeliers on a weeklong tour of the Castilla y León area, about 90 minutes north of Madrid. Whereas the space is understood for its big-box wineries and daring Tempranillos, we might be specializing in winemakers who keep away from utilizing industrial machines, pesticides, added sugars, or yeast. “Wine isn’t as glamorous as folks assume,” stated de la Viña, who leads the excursions himself. “Wine is about historical past and other people.”

We had an introductory dinner at La Caníbal, a energetic restaurant within the Lavapiés neighborhood of Madrid that serves pure wines on faucet. The next morning we piled right into a grey Volkswagen van and drove northwest to Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena, a wellness resort housed in a Twelfth-century monastery within the coronary heart of Ribera del Duero, a prized wine district in the area.

Relaxed after a day within the spa, we drove an hour east to López’s 20-acre winery, Bodegas Coruña del Conde, named after the traditional village wherein it’s situated. He supplied us samples of his cheekily named wines, together with “I’m Pure Don’t Panic” and “BC/DC,” instantly from the fermentation tanks. Contemplating that the wines had been made with Tempranillo grapes, they tasted surprisingly gentle and refreshing.

Then we made our option to a stone eating room carved into the hillside the place, in a monstrous fireside, López made a fireplace from pruned vines after which grilled milk-fed lamb on a metallic grate. As we helped ourselves to a ramification of sentimental sheep’s-milk cheese, chorizo, and peppery summer time sausages, he uncorked a beneficiant number of daring vintages, together with a cloudy white comprised of Airén grapes. As I took within the views from the hilltop, stomach full, sipping the final of my unfiltered purple, I used to be struck by how far pure wine making had progressed in Spain from its early days as a cult interest amongst wine geeks.

On the third day, we drove to Bodegas Bigardo, an experimental vineyard within the city of Toro began in 2016 by Kiko Calvo, who fashions himself as one thing of a insurgent. Whereas the area, additionally referred to as Toro (which implies bull), is understood for its punch-you-in-the-face reds, Calvo takes a softer method, producing wines with extra delicate construction and steadiness. 

After giving us a tour of the 60-acre winery, Calvo and his sister led us to a picnic desk alongside the Douro River and served us a lunch of stewed cod with rice and braised bull tail, paired with a number of reds. One bottle, a 2020 Pellejo, was made with grapes from 100-year-old Tinta de Toro vines that develop on his property. Calvo’s affection for the native grape, and the city, is clear. “I’m in love with Toro,” he stated as he savored his personal creation. 

There have been extra feasts available. The subsequent day we hiked up the Gredos mountain vary to a small natural outfit that makes a speciality of outdated Garnacha vines planted on steep slopes and at excessive altitudes. Named after its Australian-born proprietor, the winery Daniel Ramos is situated 2,700 ft above sea stage, which protects the grapes from the recent, dry local weather. ​Not like the manicured vines of typical wineries, these crops had been untamed, rising in a discipline of wildflowers and grasses.

For lunch, we headed to a small cinder-block warehouse within the city of Tiemplo. There we met Ramos’s spouse and enterprise associate, Pepi, who was stirring a cauldron of pork and paprika-flecked potatoes over a blazing fireplace. Ramos threw thick steaks on a grill whereas we scooped up vinegar-soaked anchovies and kicked round a soccer ball with their younger son. Ramos introduced out a dozen bottles of Garnacha wine, together with a 2018 classic for which the grapes had been harvested by hand, spontaneously fermented with airborne yeast, and aged in clay amphorae for a few yr. 

Spaniards have a phrase for moments when the after-meal dialog flows just like the wine and there’s no to-do: sobremesa. And it’s precisely how a Spanish meal needs to be. Our crew lingered previous the purpose of fullness to style extra vintages that Ramos doesn’t promote to the general public, like a Moscatel pét-nat. “I made 100 bottles however drank 50,” he stated, chuckling. 

Our final wine-soaked sobremesa was at MicroBio Wines, an modern vineyard within the city of Nieva that makes use of clay jugs and handblown glass bottles to age its low-intervention wines. We uncorked a number of glowing wines comprised of Verdejo grapes and trekked down right into a cryptlike cellar relationship again to the eleventh century. The partitions had been caked in pure molds and yeasts, which, we had been informed, add to the wine’s terroir. After a heavenly lunch of roasted pork leg with grainy mustard, we toured a 5,000-bottle assortment of pure wines amassed by Ismael Gozalo, the proprietor.

As I sat swirling the final sips of one in all MicroBio’s Verdejos, made with grapes from a 280-year-old vine that grows on the property, I used to be struck by the distinction. I used to be sitting in a plastic chair in a warehouse, surrounded by pallets and barrels. My boots had been dusty from trudging by way of vineyards. But in only one week I had tasted among the most spectacular wine and meals I had skilled in six years of dwelling in Spain. De la Viña was proper: pure wine shouldn’t be all the time glamorous, however in Castilla y León, it’s usually distinctive. 

Seven-day journeys with Choices de la Viña from $4,700, all-inclusive.

A model of this story first appeared within the December 2024 problem of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “By the Glass.”