The place to Store, Eat, and Keep in Freetown, Sierra Leone’s Capital



On most Saturdays throughout her childhood, MaryAnn Kai Kai would buy groceries along with her household on Rawdon Road in Freetown, Sierra Leone. Vogue was throughout Kai Kai, who grew up admiring the huge closet of her grandmother, a diplomat’s spouse. “She had all types of African prints and the newest fashions from the U.Ok.,” Kai Kai says.

Right this moment, she makes customized caftans and attire underneath the label Madam Wokie, a reference to her great-great-aunt Madam Wokie Massaquoi, a former member of Sierra Leone’s parliament who as soon as met Queen Elizabeth. Kai Kai has proven her beautiful tie-dyed m’boubou robes on the runways of New York and Lagos and outfitted Idris Elba, the Duchess of York, and the primary girls of Angola and Nigeria.

The courtyard at Cole Road Guesthouse; a shrimp and greens dish at Cole Road Guesthouse.

Matthew Brief/courtesy of Cole Road Guesthouse


Kai Kai additionally strives to provide again. Through the pandemic, she launched a program to show ladies to hand-dye fabric utilizing the gara method, which originated in Indonesia. The material patterns that Kai Kai makes use of usually embrace cow’s eyes. Final spring, with the help of the Sierra Leone Financial Diversification Mission, she helped practice 800 ladies throughout the nation to make batiks and beads. Right this moment the ladies promote their wares on the seashores outdoors city and within the extra distant Banana Islands. 

To discover Freetown’s inventive tradition, comply with Kai Kai’s information to town. 

The place to Keep

“From the veranda of Cole Road Guesthouse, within the suburb of Murray City, you’ll be able to see the Atlantic Ocean, and the courtyard is filled with fruit bushes. “

Associated: 3 African Cooks Bringing Their Meals to the International Stage

Artist Hawa Bangura at work in her studio; one in every of Bangura’s works, “I Am Not My Hair.”.

Courtesy of


The place to Browse Artwork

“Considered one of my favourite artists is Hawa-Jane Bangura, who has a by-appointment-only studio in Cockle Bay. Her work explores African historical past, tradition, and identification, and he or she actually performs round with colours.” (Above: I Am Not My Hair.) 

The place to Store

“On Malama Thomas Road, you’ll find distributors promoting tons of various materials, from Sierra Leone’s gara and kontri fabric to Ghanaian, Nigerian, West African, and even Dutch prints. I additionally prefer to browse carvings, beads, jewellery, and drums at Large Markit, on Lamina Sankoh Road.” 

Sierra Leone is dwelling to a number of markets; Large Markit, the oldest, is on Lamina Sankoh Road.

David DiGregorio/Courtesy of Nationwide Vacationer Board of Sierra Leone


The place to Eat and Drink

At Cole Road Visitor Home, I order recent juice, like ginger, mango, or hibiscus, the “ros bif” corn tacos, and the spicy jerk goat with plantains and rice. On weekends, everyone heads to the nightclub there, Warehouse, to bounce and listen to DJs. It has a mixture of all ages. The house owners are two sisters. Many of the workers, together with the bouncers, are ladies.”

For one thing downtown, Crown Bakery does an excellent Sierra Leone–fashion jollof rice with fish, beef, and hen. There’s additionally art work on the market.” 

“Ros bif” corn tacos and appetizers at Cole Road Guesthouse.

Yulia Denisyuk


The place to Hit the Seashore

“I at all times see locals out within the waves at Bureh, River No. 2, or Tokeh Seashore (seen right here), on the Freetown Peninsula. After a day within the solar, I prefer to hit Franco’s for lobster and oysters — the tables are proper on the sand.”

Tokeh Seashore, on the Freetown Peninsula.

David DiGregorio/Courtesy of Nationwide Vacationer Board of Sierra Leone


A model of this story first appeared within the April 2024 subject of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “All Eyes on Freetown.



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