The Lengthy Crossing of Norway’s Lofoten Islands

Simply off the coast of northern Norway within the Arctic Circle lies a legendary archipelago by the identify of Lofoten. A mix of deep fjords, windswept seashores, jagged peaks and picture-postcard villages, its staggering magnificence has lengthy been celebrated in artwork and literature, and in newer instances, seemingly each second panorama photographer’s Instagram account. Whereas its unparalleled magnificence is in no way a secret, there may be nonetheless a strategy to escape a lot of the crowds and expertise the Lofoten’s wonders in comparative solitude. It’s referred to as the Lengthy Crossing – a 160 km (99 mi) mountaineering route by means of the spectacular coronary heart of the island chain. 

Greg “Malto” Gressel and I hiked your complete Lengthy Crossing (plus aspect journeys) over seven days in late September 2018. Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Yours actually descending from Dalstuva Peak on Stage 5 of the Lengthy Crossing.

At a Look

Origins – The concept for the “Lengthy Crossing” is from the workforce at Rando-Lofoten. This wonderful web site is a goldmine for all issues mountaineering within the archipelago.

Distance (11 Levels):  160 km (99.4 mi) –  Our seven-day journey ended up being roughly 190 – 200 km (118 – 124 mi), as we additionally included aspect journeys, some connector street walks, and most notably an overland hyperlink between levels 9 and 10 (see Alternates for particulars)

Common Length:  11 days. 

Issue Degree:  Reasonable to troublesome

Begin / End:

• Village of Å (south)
• Delp (north)

Overview map of The Lengthy Crossing (Rando-Lofoten)

Which Path?:  I don’t suppose it makes a lot of a distinction. The Rando-Lofoten website describes the hike from north to south, nevertheless, we selected to go the opposite course. Why? Just because it labored out higher for us with the ferry schedule from Bodø (See Getting There & Away).

Complete Elevation Acquire: 9,193 m (30,161 ft)

Highest Level: 1,029 m (3,376 ft) – The summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak – a not-to-be-missed aspect journey from the principle route throughout stage 10.

Lowest Level: Sea degree.

Highest level – Gazing northeast from the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak

The stunningly located Horseid Seaside; a effectively worthwhile aspect journey throughout Stage 9.

Getting There & Away:

• Accessing the Lofoten Islands: The principal gateway to the Lofotens is the city of Bodø, which is serviced by each day flights from Oslo. From Bodø you’ll be able to catch one of many common ferries to both Svolvaer (closest city to the northern terminus) or Moskenes harbour (closest entry level to the southern terminus). See torghatten-nord.no for ferry info.

• Village of Å (southern terminus): From Moskenes harbour its a mild 5km (3.1 mi) street stroll alongside the E10 to/from the southern terminus in Å. Alternatively, you’ll be able to take bus #18-742. See reisnordland.no for bus info. 

•  Delp: In line with Rando-Lofoten web site: “Take line 18-749 from Svolvær in course of Liland, cease at Jordness Kryss (20 min). Wait there and take the bus 18-733 in course of Laukvik, then cease at Straumsnes Vest. Stroll till the beginning (or end) of the hike.” For bus instances, see reisnordland.no.

• For an informative overview of transport choices for the Lofoten Islands, try the wonderful 68north.com.
  

  Wanting eastward over Agvatnet in direction of the Village of Å / Stage 11.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. 

• Malto and I selected to do the hike in late September/early October. This meant shorter days and an elevated likelihood of precipitation, nevertheless, we determined it was value it for the opportunity of seeing the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights). It turned out we have been fortunate on each counts. We had wonderful climate for roughly six out of the seven days, and have been handled to Mom Nature’s mesmerizing gentle present in the course of the closing couple of nights of the journey. 

MLD Duomid and an emerald inexperienced evening sky / Ultimate evening of the Lengthy Crossing.

Planning Info 

• GPS Information: GPS information for all 11 levels might be discovered on the Rando-Lofoten web site. We printed out maps for the route, along with having the GPX monitor on our telephones (Gaia GPS app). Observe: See the Route / Situations part beneath for info on our overland hyperlink between Levels 9 and 10

• Overview Map: Aside from the stage maps talked about above, we additionally carried a 1:100,000 overview map (#2549) of the Lofotens from Turkart. This common sheet is broadly obtainable in bookshops, out of doors shops and vacationer workplaces in Bodø and the Lofoten Islands.

• Guidebooks : We made do with the aforementioned gadgets together with some fundamental planning info listed on the Rando-Lofoten website. For people in search of one thing extra, Rando-Lofoten have put out a paperback guidebook – Mountaineering within the Lofoten Islands – which accommodates detailed trekking notes for the route, along with beta on greater than 60 day hikes all through the archipelago.

• Extra Common Info: I had a Kindle model of Lonely Planet’s newest Norway journey guidebook on my telephone.

• On-line Beta: Aside from Rando-Lofoten, the most effective assets for exploring the archipelago on foot is Cody Duncan’s wonderful web site, 68north.com. Aside from helpful logistical info, Duncan’s photographs are among the many finest I’ve seen from the storied archipelago. They’re so good in truth, that a few of them are featured within the second of my Wanderlust books, The Hidden Tracks!

Dawn from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike within the Lofoten Islands.

• Language:  Norwegian. With the doable exception of oldsters which are over 60, just about everybody you meet within the islands speaks English. That mentioned, as an indication of respect to your hosts I extremely suggest studying some fundamental pleasantries within the native tongue.

• Cell/Cellular Protection: There may be protection in the entire villages, and a lot of the route’s excessive factors.

• Lengthy Crossing Planning Abstract: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Learn by means of this text; 2. Obtain the GPS information from Rando-Lofoten; 3. Take into account selecting up their guidebook; 4. Try Coby Duncan’s web site for visible inspiration, and; 5. Upon arrival in Bodo, buy the 1:100,000 overview map listed above (or order on-line earlier than you go).

• Gear Listing: Click on right here for an in depth gear listing from the journey.

Heading north in direction of the sleepy village of Napp on the sixth stage.

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  You gained’t go hungry on the Lengthy Crossing. We by no means needed to carry greater than a day or two’s meals at anybody time. See the stage summaries on the Rando-Lofoten web site (or guidebook) for resupply particulars. Throughout our seven day hike we picked up meals on the following areas: Stage 2 – Sandsletta Tenting (restaurant / store); Stage 5 – Leknes (city); Stage 6 – Nusfjord village; Stage 7 – Ramberg village; Stage 9 – Vindstad (common ferry service to scenic village of Reine, which has a number of meals and lodging choices); Stage 11 – Village of Å.

• Water:  Ample. We by no means needed to carry multiple or two liters at anybody time. On the purification entrance, neither of us handled water in the course of the hike, nor did we expertise any intestinal points.

Malto descending in direction of Forsfjord throughout Stage 10.

Morning ferry again to Vindstad, after an surprising aspect journey to the picturesque village of Reine.

Route Notes:

Overview:

The Lengthy Crossing of the Lofotens is one among Europe’s most spectacular trails – a mixture of yawning fjords, hidden coves, serrated peaks and vibrant fishing villages. Though for probably the most half unmarked, in clear climate the route is just not troublesome to observe as there are many distinctive pure options that act as reference factors for orientation. It may be a unique story when its wet and foggy, so remember to maintain monitor of your location always. Terrain-wise the going is commonly steep, muddy and uncovered, however the otherworldly vistas present greater than ample compensation to your efforts.   

How Lengthy will it take?:

Within the “At a Look” part above, I point out that the common Lengthy Crossing hiker will take 11 days to finish the route. That is the time urged on the Rando-Lofoten web site, and I feel it’s kind of on the cash for most folk. Nonetheless, as is the case with nearly all multi-day treks, the period of time wanted to finish the Lengthy Crossing can range tremendously relying on quite a few elements. Match and skilled hikers which are carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve an honest run with the climate, can comfortably do the the route in seven to 9 days with loads of time leftover for aspect journeys.

Malto striding out at nightfall in the course of the fifth stage. Observe the MLD Burn backpack and orange Patagonia Houdini windshirt – he has used each gadgets on each hike now we have achieved collectively over the previous eight years!

Highlights:

My favorite levels on the AV1 have been as follows:

• • Stage 1 –  Delp to Sandsletta – That includes a spectacular and really uncovered ridge stroll north of Matmora Peak.
  • Stage 9 – Selfjord Bay to Forsfjorden Fjord – Together with the aspect journey to Horseid Seaside. Remember to go for a dip within the Arctic waters!
  • Stage 10 – Forsfjorden to the village of Å – That includes a aspect journey to the summit of Hermannsdalstinden Peak, which affords arguably the best 360° panorama in your complete archipelago.
  • Stage 11 – Out and again throughout the island from the Village of Å, through Agvatnet and Stokkvikvatnet lakes.

Extra views from Hermannsdalstinden Peak.

Malto descending alongside the north ridge of Matmora Peak earlier than the end in Delp.

Taking within the views from Matmora ridge.

Lowlights: 

Out of geographic necessity, there may be some roadwalking concerned on a number of of the levels. It’s doable to hitch or take buses throughout these sections (see Rando-Lofoten stage descriptions for particulars), nevertheless, we determined to hike them aside from the section between Napp and Leknes (which features a non-pedestrian tunnel that goes below the ocean). Though strolling on pavement isn’t best, we didn’t encounter an excessive amount of in the way in which of visitors, and there was usually a reasonably vast shoulder in order that it by no means felt harmful.

Alternates

Aside from worthy aspect journeys to Hermannsdalstinden Peak, Helvetestinden Peak and Horseid Seaside, there have been two principal factors at which we diverged from the usual Lengthy Crossing route: 

Stage 2 & 3 – Olderfjorden 

The route described on Rando-Lofoten swings south towards the city of Svolvaer. As we have been already carrying adequate provides, we determined to take the trail much less travelled from the junction on the finish of Olderfjorden (68°15.7872’N, 14°23.2307’E). From this level we continued ENE up the valley. The path was boggy, soggy, overgrown and disappeared and reappeared with regularity. All that mentioned, the surroundings was spectacular and it proved to be an enjoyably difficult part. We linked again as much as the usual route at Bothnvatnet lake (68°17.2426’N,  14°30.2077’E).

Stage 2 & 3 Alternate – Ascending from Olderfjorden on the sixth and penultimate day, we skilled our first sustained interval of inclement climate in the course of the hike.

Overland Hyperlink between Levels 9 and 10: 

The oldsters at Rando-Lofoten counsel you’re taking the ferry between Kjerkfjorden and Forsfjorden. This is because of a steep, and probably harmful stretch positioned between Vindstad and Kjerkfjord. Though I utterly perceive their omission, each Malto and I are very skilled in technical terrain, so we determined to research the part for ourselves.

The precise section the Rando-Lofoten workforce are referring to begins on the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak (a must-do aspect journey). It’s undeniably precipitous in elements and in moist climate could possibly be extraordinarily slippery. Nonetheless, in case you are sure-footed, have a great head for heights and are carrying a light-weight load, I feel it’s inside the capabilities of most sturdy and seasoned backpackers. Mountaineering from Vindstad to Kjerkfjord, you’ll start dropping from the saddle at 67°58.6197’N, 12°59.7817’E, and descend in a NE course, ultimately reaching flat floor at round 67°58.8192’N, 13°0.2269’E.  For a lot of the way in which down there’s a faint path that’s sporadically cairned.

Though I personally didn’t discover this part to be overly troublesome, Rando-Lofoten don’t suggest it for a cause. The sheer and rugged nature of the terrain signifies that it’s appropriate just for seasoned hikers in wonderful climate. Earlier than deciding to present it a attempt, take into account whether or not or not you may have the requisite expertise. Should you aren’t certain, take the ferry.

Observe that the second a part of the connector part linking levels 9 and 10 is a very completely different story. Stretching between Vindstad and the facility station at Forsfjorden, this section consists of a simple to observe, undulating path which skirts the japanese aspect of the fjord. It’s appropriate for hikers of all ranges of expertise.

In the course of the connector part between levels 9 and 10, I took a effectively worthwhile aspect journey to the summit of Helvetestinden Peak.

Pre-descent views over Kjerkfjord from the saddle SE of Helvetestinden Peak.

Wanting again towards the saddle after descending a grassy chute.

The village of Kjerkfjorden.

Sleeping

Wild tenting is feasible all through the Lengthy Crossing. Throughout our week lengthy journey, we camped out each evening besides one; an unplanned aspect journey to the picturesque village of Reine. To get there, we took one of many twice each day ferries from Vindstad. For lodging choices in villages alongside the way in which, see the Rando-Lofoten web site or try up-to-date choices on Reserving.com. 

MLD Duomid at sundown on Day 3.

Ultimate Musings from the Lengthy Crossing

Solitude within the Lofotens

By any standards the Lofoten Islands is without doubt one of the most terribly lovely locations on the planet. It’s subsequently no shock that lately its recognition has began to increase. However as is the case with different well-known pure wonders such because the Grand Canyon and Yosemite Nationwide Park, backpacking affords a strategy to escape the crowds and luxuriate in a excessive diploma of solitude. In the course of the Lengthy Crossing there have been instances once we noticed different vacationers – Bunes seaside, the Village of Å and Munken come to thoughts – nevertheless, for probably the most half we had the path to ourselves. And that in a nutshell seashell is without doubt one of the issues that I’ve at all times cherished about mountaineering – with a bit further effort it’s doable to extricate your self from the overwhelmed monitor, and discover quiet and peaceable moments even in a few of the earth’s hottest wilderness corners.

Norway’s Cod Capital

All through the Lengthy Crossing you will note cod drying racks in a lot of the villages. A few years earlier than it turned a mecca for nature loving vacationers, the Lofoten Islands performed an essential position in Norway’s fishing trade. For greater than a millennium it has been the centre of nation’s profitable cod fisheries. A job that’s of explicit significance in the course of the colder months, when cod migrate south from the Barents sea and are available to the hotter waters of the Lofotens with a purpose to spawn.

A Thermal Anomaly

Due to the above-mentioned heat currents of the Gulf Stream, the Lofoten Islands experiences a comparatively delicate oceanic local weather. Regardless of it mendacity at the same latitude to locations comparable to Alaska and Greenland, common winter and summer season temperatures within the archipelago are a relatively balmy 1°C (33.8°F) and 13°C (55.4°F) respectively.

Submit-hike Facet Journey – The Mosktraumen  

Positioned simply off the Lofoten archipelago is a singular system of tidal eddies and whirlpools often known as the Moskstraumen (or maelstrom). Over the centuries this hydrological phenomena has been featured in varied traditional literary tales together with Jules Verne’s, “Twenty Thousand Leagues Underneath the Sea” and Edgar Allen Poe’s quick story, “A Descent into the Maelstrom.” What units the legendary Moskstraumen other than most different whirlpools is its power – it’s the second strongest of its variety on the planet – plus the truth that it happens in open sea, reasonably than in a river or strait.

Malto 

I’ll end this submit with a shout-out to my good pal and mountaineering companion on the Lengthy Crossing, Greg “Malto” Gressel. Since assembly on the Appalachian Path in November, 2012, Malto and I’ve achieved a bunch of various mountaineering journeys collectively together with the Lowest to Highest Route, Wonderland Path, Northville Placid Path and the Wind River Excessive Route. Most of those journeys have been achieved outdoors of standard mountaineering season home windows, and as a consequence we’ve sometimes encountered some pretty difficult climate (see pictures beneath). Regardless of the meteorological obstacles and a gag-worthy path eating regimen of spam and maltodextrin, Malto has at all times remained singularly upbeat and barely appears to put on down no matter the situations. It’s particularly spectacular when you think about he simply celebrated his eighty fifth birthday. Thanks for an additional nice hike, mate!

Malto wading by means of the appropriately named “Duck Gap” in the course of the mom of all storms | Northville Placid Path, Adirondacks, New York, 2015.

Malto descending to Little Sandy Creek throughout an enormous snow storm in Wyoming’s Wind River Vary (2016).

Malto and I on the summit of Matmora, the ultimate peak of our Lengthy Crossing of the Lofoten Islands.

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