Most polyester merchandise dwell a single wonderful life — as a moisture-wicking shirt, hard-wearing daypack, butt-flattering leggings — earlier than seemingly making their strategy to the rubbish. There’s some recycled polyester, however in line with the nonprofit Textile Change, 98% of it produced on this planet final 12 months didn’t come from discarded garments.
Former Below Armour CEO Patrik Frisk stated he realized this actuality was not sustainable when he was attempting to extend the quantity of recycled materials in garments throughout the model’s product line.
“It was a race to be as ‘recycled’ as attainable, with out totally understanding the impression of the place this complete factor was going,” he instructed GearJunkie. “Gathering bottles to provide extra polyester cloth was “not sustainable in the long run,” he stated. “I used to be fairly naive.”
Frisk is now the CEO of Reju, a textile regeneration firm owned by French engineering firm Technip Industries. On October 3 of this 12 months, Reju introduced the opening of its first manufacturing unit in Frankfurt, Germany, the place it plans to provide branded recycled polyester from textile waste that will in any other case be buried, burnt, or dumped.
Then, on the finish of final month, Reju introduced a three-way partnership between itself, nonprofit thrift retailer chain Goodwill, and waste administration firm WM, that can funnel discarded polyester textiles to a future Reju manufacturing unit based mostly within the U.S.
In an interview with GearJunkie, Frisk stated he expects this facility to be operational by 2027.
Reju: Recycling Polyester Attire
Frisk stated he hopes Reju will finally intercept as a lot of the 92 million tons of textile waste produced every year as attainable earlier than it reaches the rubbish. This will probably be made simpler in Europe beginning subsequent 12 months, when a brand new rule requires EU member states to ascertain separate assortment techniques for used textiles.
Even nonetheless, really turning discarded textiles into Reju polyester requires a considerably completely different course of than producing standard virgin polyester from petroleum.
“If you use a uncooked materials like textile waste, the problem is that it is available in many types,” Frisk stated.
In concept, the simplest product for Reju to reclaim is a 100% white polyester shirt. Sadly, post-consumer textile waste is a mix of all the things.
“If you begin to combination textile waste, one of many points you will have is time. You could have stuff that’s 40 years previous, 20 years previous. We’ve gotten higher about what we’re placing into textiles … however the actuality is, again within the day, issues have been very nasty.”
The corporate has developed machines that make use of optical and infrared applied sciences to kind out materials constituted of pure polyester it might probably reclaim from these made partially from cotton or different supplies. As soon as all the things is sorted, the corporate removes what Frisk refers to as “disruptors,” components like zippers and buttons.
Then, the fabric is shredded, eliminated of any dyes, depolymerized, and reconstituted. Frisk didn’t verify if any corporations have signed on to make use of the material. He stated there are conversations taking place, however he needed to first make it clear to the general public that the corporate had constructed out its manufacturing capabilities and provide chain.
However, he famous, a part of Reju’s attraction will probably be its capability to enhance on the capabilities of the virgin supplies it recycles. In response to Frisk, Reju will be capable of make use of the teachings realized by its mum or dad firm to provide higher polyester than different commodity producers.
“We take out all of the PFAS and different impurities,” Frisk confirmed. “We are able to create yarns that may be put into materials that may be higher wicking, softer, extra sturdy … there’s loads we are able to do.”
