In the summertime of 2023, my mountain climbing companion Flan and I got down to thru-hike the 510-mile-long GR11 path by the Spanish Pyrenees. With 150,000 toes of elevation acquire and an equal quantity of descent, that child is a doozy.
Our purpose was to finish it in 30 days, which put us at round 5,000 toes of acquire and loss day by day. That’s considerably steeper than the steepest U.S. trails I’ve accomplished, such because the Wonderland Path and the Lengthy Path — which might have been sufficient to make our Pyrenees journey a very completely different expertise from U.S. thru-hiking by itself.
However we might come to find many different variations between European and American thru-hiking. To the purpose, we really felt some stage of tradition shock between our other ways of life on the path. The problem of the GR11 was partially because of the rugged nature of the mountain vary and partially on account of very actual cultural variations in outside recreation.
We discovered loads. Listed below are some highlights that would assist put together you in your personal thru-hiking expertise throughout the pond.
Through-Mountain climbing within the Spanish Pyrenees
Tenting
In the US, we’re really blessed to have huge expanses of public land and wilderness. It’s not tough on the PCT, for instance, to nero (hike lower than 10 miles) out of city and arrange camp a mile or two down the path.
Spain was a unique story, which took some getting used to.
Nearly all of the land adjoining to the GR11 is privately owned or a part of the nationwide park system. That makes tenting logistics extra difficult. In Spain, wild tenting is technically unlawful. However there are a few loopholes.
As an example, one can bivouac above a sure elevation between 8 p.m. and eight a.m. You too can ask for permission from the landowner (or simply be very discreet about your campsite).
We by no means had a difficulty with wild tenting. However there was all the time the delicate concern at the back of my thoughts after I was tenting at decrease elevations, and I didn’t see many different hikers doing the identical.
As an alternative, many hikers would carry a daypack on the path and keep in refugios every night time. Refugios are frequent all through European mountain ranges. They’re basically distant, high-altitude B&Bs. Staying in them each night time can get costly over days and weeks. It’s additionally typically a crap shoot whether or not or not they’ll have beds out there. So attempt to make reservations forward of time in the event you plan on taking this method.
Refugio Hospitality for Pyrenees Hikers
The refugios of Europe sometimes present necessities like a mattress, bathe, dinner, breakfast, and typically even a takeaway lunch. Some are rustic and budget-friendly whereas others appear to exist solely to revenue off of hikers. They make thru-hiking accessible to hikers who’re in any other case unable to hold a big in a single day pack.
Additionally they have a tendency to draw massive teams of inexperienced hikers — which might compromise the tranquility of nature.
Even the model of hospitality within the refugios was a little bit of a tradition shock coming from North America’s lengthy trails. Each particular person amenity was held below lock and key. We had been scoffed at after we talked about we didn’t convey bathtub towels however had been sometimes supplied to lease them for a payment.
As “Hiker Trash” (a time period we affectionately use within the U.S.), we felt considerably seemed down upon. However hey, that is simply my very own opinion and private expertise. I nonetheless loved a cafe con leche or cerveza each time I handed a refugio on the path.
This little bit of tradition shock actually made me grateful for the welcoming and supportive group that surrounds our lengthy trails in the US. We check with adjoining cities as “path cities.” We’ve phrases like “path magic” and “path angels,” aptly named for the compassionate souls who exit of their option to lend a serving to hand and make your journey as optimistic as it may be. I didn’t sense as a lot of that in Europe.
Gear and Journey Suggestions: Through-Mountain climbing the Pyrenees
I usually felt happy with my gear on the GR11, however there are a couple of modifications I’d make if I had been to deal with it once more.
Solar and Rain
I hiked with a fairly typical Colorado ultralight backpacking equipment, anticipating the mountains to be fairly related. The Pyrenees are akin to the Rockies within the excessive nation by way of publicity, however they get much more rain than I used to be anticipating.
So, you should definitely put an equal precedence on solar safety and rain gear. See GearJunkie’s information to the Finest Solar Safety Shirts and the Finest Rain Jackets.
My solar hoodie was good on bluebird days on the ridges, nevertheless it was manner an excessive amount of within the muggy, humid Basque Nation. Subsequent time, I might go for a button-down shirt with respectable UV safety as a substitute.
For rain, I used to be glad to have a pair of light-weight rainpants. Whereas we did run into a couple of wet patches on the path, these had been extra essential for the mornings after we had been strolling by excessive, moist grass. Even when it’s not actively raining, the humidity and mist within the Pyrenees make it difficult to maintain all the things dry on a thru-hike.
Ticks and Bugs
There are ticks on the GR11! I might extremely advocate treating your entire gear and mountain climbing garments with a permethrin answer. I like Sawyer’s Permethrin Insect Repellent for garments.
Here’s a helpful information to Selecting the Proper Bug Repellant for a thru-hike like our Pyrenees journey. Or verify this information on Easy methods to Stop, Spot, and Take away Ticks.
Water Filtration
Deliver two strategies of water remedy. Farmers in Spain graze their livestock within the mountains. So, hikers often discover themselves amid herds of cattle, filtering water from streams surrounded by cow pies. The paths are additionally closely utilized by hikers who’re utilizing the lavatory alongside the way in which.
Having a backup technique of filtration is a should. That’s no completely different within the U.S.
Sawyer’s water filters are beloved amongst thru-hiking circles as a result of they’re cost-effective, filter effectively, and are light-weight. The model additionally donates 90% of its earnings to supply clear water in growing international locations. Many thru-hikers additionally like LifeStraw filters as a result of they’re adaptable and versatile.
If you wish to store round and examine choices, right here is our information to the Finest Backpacking Water Filters.
Maps and Navigation
Halfway into our hike, Czech hikers tipped us off in regards to the Mapy.cz app. It’s a improbable software masking each meter of that path, and the huts, refugios, and water sources alongside the way in which. It additionally coated numerous different trails all through Europe.
My favourite function is its skill to calculate distance, elevation acquire, and estimated mountain climbing time from level A to B. The app works extremely nicely, and is utterly free! Our Czech path buddies proudly described it as “the satisfaction of the Czech Republic.”
If you happen to’re mountain climbing in Europe, it is a nice useful resource. However there could also be others as nicely. Ask fellow hikers what they’re utilizing to navigate, and it’s possible you’ll choose up a couple of native secrets and techniques like this one.
Transportation
Europe’s public transportation outshines that supplied in the US. Mountain journey might be tough, although.
BlaBlaCar is a improbable carpooling platform that saved my tuchus on a number of events. It permits customers to promote their journey locations and vacant area of their private automobiles at their chosen worth.
For the driving force, it offsets the price of gasoline. For the rider, it affords an reasonably priced option to journey across the nation and the prospect to satisfy fellow vacationers. Individuals use it for each long- and short-distance journeys.
It’s mainly a paid hitchhiking app. I personally by no means felt unsafe and had nothing however optimistic experiences with the BlaBlaCar app. However clearly, you employ companies like these at your personal danger.
Flixbus is one other useful app to make use of in Europe. The app compares bus fares throughout the continent. It additionally permits customers to comply with a bus route in actual time, updating the data on stops, delays, and arrival instances so you’ll be able to plan forward extra successfully.
Notes on Path Meals
Rural Spain will not be as conscientious about meals allergic reactions or sensitivities as we’re in some components of the States. I witnessed the intense aspect of this battle whereas mountain climbing with a companion who has various meals allergic reactions from nuts to legumes to shellfish (which meant no paella).
Meals packaging was clearly all in Spanish (and even Basque or Catalonian if we had been unfortunate, as neither of us speaks these languages in any respect). I rapidly discovered to look out for the phrases “frutos secos” (nuts) and “mariscos” (shellfish). Realizing the right way to articulate your allergic reactions or sensitivities and search for them on labels is a life-saving talent.
And in the event you undergo from pork or gluten intolerances, I want you the most effective of luck in Northern Spain. Jamon and bread make up a big portion of the menu at most Spanish eating places.
Discovering respectable, nonperishable path meals to pack out from city was additionally a problem. Perhaps I’m simply spoiled from all of the freeze-dried, dehydrated, and canned choices within the U.S. Even good previous peanut butter, a standard staple for thru-hikers, was a rarity within the Pyrenees.
If you happen to’ve obtained some favourite path snacks, it may not harm to pack them with you — if for nothing else, then to have a style of dwelling.
One other factor we weren’t conscious of (which led to 2 bouts of meals poisoning) is the lax pasteurization legal guidelines in Spain. My first path title on the Colorado Path, “Cheese Sweat,” got here from including some greasy, sweaty cheese that had been in my pack all day to some pasta. It’s not one thing I’m pleased with, and never one thing that may fly with native Spanish cheese from a roadside dairy farmer. Simply belief me on that one.
Through-Mountain climbing Tradition Shock: Remaining Ideas
Through-hiking within the Pyrenees was an unforgettable expertise and I’m grateful to have added the GR11 to my mountain climbing resume.
Don’t count on the mountain climbing tradition to be equivalent to the US, although. So, take a couple of of those journey ideas with you — not simply to extend your probabilities of success, but in addition to make sure the smoothest crusing and greatest time alongside the way in which.
And do extra analysis on thru-hiking — irrespective of the place you’re headed. There are good ideas from thru-hiking bodily therapists for protecting your well being and health tip-top whereas on the path. Different guides will assist hikers discover the greatest finances gear and describe the right way to plan and prep gear and attire for thru-hikes.
Clearly, thru-hiking in Spain might be completely different from thru-hiking in different European international locations. However numerous these variations span path tradition throughout Europe, and the guidelines and tips we discovered on our journey might be useful elsewhere as nicely.
