Navigate Paris’s Louvre Museum Like a Professional

How do you fall in love with the Louvre? The largest, grandest, most visited public repository of artwork on this planet, it calls for our consideration. However love? Like an evasive paramour, the Louvre might not all the time appear to be considering a relationship.

The constructing has sat, stonily, on the Proper Financial institution of the Seine for hundreds of years, beginning as a medieval navy fortress on the finish of the twelfth century, then turning into a palace and at last a museum. Royals and rulers renovated it greater than 20 occasions, satisfying their vainness however forsaking a sprawling construction that lacks logic. Its galleries, facades, staircases, and ceilings are particular person jewels, however collectively they don’t kind a coherent complete. 

I keep in mind nothing concerning the first time I visited the Louvre, the summer time after my junior yr in school. I want I may say I used to be moved by its majesty, or felt the ghostly presence of kings and queens. Maybe I used to be annoyed by the dimensions of the place: the lengthy, darkish corridors; wings closed due to a scarcity of safety guards; room after room of work of Jesus, Mary, and their kin, followers, enemies, and attendant angels. I will need to have seen the Mona Lisa, however all I wrote in my journal was: “I went to the Louvre and walked exterior of the Tuileries Backyard alongside the retailers.”

Like me, it took time for Laurence des Automobiles, the director of the Louvre, to yield to the museum’s seductive energy. Des Automobiles got here to the Louvre’s prime job in 2021 after 4 years as head of the Musée d’Orsay, and a few years earlier than that as scientific director of the museum in Abu Dhabi that bears the Louvre’s identify. However even she remembers nothing concerning the very first time she visited the Louvre. “I can not actually pin the second,” she says. “I was not an excellent museum-goer once I was a child.”

Whereas there have been umpteen efforts to enhance the customer expertise, administrators of the Louvre have lengthy acknowledged the challenges it presents—and its absence of cohesion and order. “Ours is a really tough assortment to understand—except you understand historical past, mythology, and the Bible,” Henri Loyrette, who served as director of the museum for 12 years, advised me. “Nobody can presumably declare to be a ‘specialist of the Louvre.’ ” Jean-Luc Martinez, his successor, stated “the Louvre is a palace and doesn’t have the logic of a museum.” Des Automobiles calls it “a big, jumbled encyclopedia.”

To free myself from feeling overcome by its forbidding magnitude, I needed to discover ways to go to the Louvre. I needed to don the mantle of Loyrette’s humility. I needed to wander and get misplaced and overlook about time. I needed to come to know the artworks by making connections and beginning conversations as I roamed the galleries—with specialists, guards, mates, even good strangers.

And so, over time and lengthy acquaintance, the Louvre has pulled me into its grasp. I not see it as a fortress, palace, or museum, however as a dwelling, respiratory character with a number of personalities.

Someplace alongside the way in which, I fell in love. 

Over years of trial and error, I’ve developed private methods to make a Louvre go to extra pleasant, for each first-timers and outdated palms.

It will possibly take perpetually to get in. In the summertime of 2013, shortly after he was named director, Martinez posed as an unusual vacationer and stood in line on the major entrance. It took him greater than three hours to enter. It’s not practically that unhealthy as we speak, however nonetheless not good sufficient.

It’s essential to guide timed tickets prematurely, as solely a small variety of walk-ins are allowed per day. You may keep away from the principle entrance on the pyramid by attempting the underground Carrousel entrance, however it will possibly additionally get clogged. You may line up earlier than the museum opens, however that tactic can backfire if too many guides and their shoppers do the identical factor. Generally going at lunchtime or on the finish of the day works higher. Becoming a member of an organized group go to or hiring a non-public information might help keep away from the strains. Even with the Louvre’s determination in 2023 to slash the variety of entry tickets by 30 %, there could also be a wait, and it might be a protracted one, no matter your technique.

Come relaxed, not pressured from a journey in an overcrowded Métro or a taxi that has been trapped in central Paris’s gridlock. And don’t depend on consuming once you get inside. The meals stations are crowded, and the fare is mediocre. It’s finest to reach on the Louvre straight from a café. (Certainly one of my mantras is: “By no means come to the Louvre on an empty abdomen or with a full bladder.”) My favourite spot is Le Nemours, a three-minute stroll from the museum on the Place Colette. Nobody at Le Nemours would thoughts when you ordered only one chocolat chaud and sat there for 5 hours. However scorching chocolate shouldn’t be your objective. So fortify your self with a standard, appropriately toasted croque monsieur and head towards the museum.

As soon as inside, you journey down escalators into an open round house with the texture of an airport terminal. You hear the noise of the gang earlier than you see it. The indicators warning guests to look out for pickpockets are unnerving however needed. If it’s a sunny day, it will get scorching; daylight bounces off the pale stone flooring and blinds you. Your go to hasn’t even began, however you already really feel disoriented.

Many of the explanatory labels close to every murals are transient and written solely in French. The official foldout map, displaying places of the displays, appears designed to confuse.

However don’t let the Louvre’s imperfect welcome discourage you. You’re right here to see nice artwork. You’ve paid admission to get in, and the temptation is to get your cash’s value. Ninety minutes to 2 hours is what most individuals can handle in a single go. Should you attempt to keep longer with no break, your toes will harm, and you’ll overlook a lot of what you noticed. Journey mild, with a small backpack or the smallest purse doable; depart the guidebook, the sketchbook, and the water bottle house. Put on sturdy footwear. For the slippery stone, particularly the marble stairs, I’d stick together with your most structured trainers. To attenuate distractions, keep away from Mondays. It’s the worst day to go, as a result of the Musée d’Orsay is closed, rising demand on the Louvre (which is itself closed on Tuesdays). Keep away from Wednesday afternoon, as a result of French youngsters don’t have any faculty, liberating throngs of households for museum-going.

The Louvre additionally closes sure rooms (cleansing, renovations, lack of safety workers) and proclaims the closures on its web site. If you’re decided to see sure artworks, studying up prematurely affords some assist. There are literally thousands of guidebooks. My favourite is an oversize, 107-page official information with wonderful colour photographs, Masterpieces of the Louvre. It is available in a number of languages and could be bought for simply eight euros on the museum or via its on-line retailer.

As a lot as I desire wandering, I may give a primary Louvre pilgrims’ tour—the biggies and extra—in two hours. I take friends up the escalator to the Sully wing, via a vestibule the place the partitions are adorned with 4 friezes, after which into a protracted tunnel to see the vestiges of a centuries-old fortress wall.

Then we mount a staircase on the appropriate, after which one other, additionally to our proper, and enter the vaulted Renaissance music gallery often called Le Salle des Caryatides, with its historic Roman statues. By means of the home windows, we view the pyramid on the appropriate and the Cour Carrée on the left and proceed straight to the Venus de Milo, within the room subsequent door.

We take a breath right here. Then comes a proper flip via the juncture of the Greek, Roman, and Etruscan collections. We take a fast take a look at the Baroque ceiling, then head up the steps to the Winged Victory of Samothrace. Now we have now reached the Denon wing and discover ourselves on the museum’s busiest crossroads. First, we enjoy the fantastic thing about the goddess of victory. Then we proceed to the left into the razzle-dazzle Apollo Gallery, the place the crown jewels are displayed. After we’ve been blinded by France’s royal heritage—or what’s left of it—we U-turn and return to the Winged Victory.

This time we take a proper, pausing as we encounter Botticelli’s Venus. (There are quiet locations to take a seat close to the home windows that look out to the ground under.) Then via the Salon Carré, with its Thirteenth- to Fifteenth-century Italian work, and extra well-known and later Italian work within the Grande Galerie, which isn’t a gallery however a protracted hall. We don’t miss the 4 Leonardos! Strolling the size of the Grande Galerie, we then comply with the gang to a room that results in the Salle des États to see the Mona Lisa. I inform my friends to not waste 20 minutes ready in line except they’re decided to take a selfie along with her, however to take a look at her from the facet. Then I insist we take within the different nice work within the room, beginning with Veronese’s The Marriage ceremony Feast at Cana, 150 occasions larger than the Mona Lisa. And we don’t depart with out spending time with Titian’s Man with a Glove. On the opposite facet of the partition the place the Mona Lisa hangs are three different Titians. Hardly anybody seems to be at them, however we do! 

Once we depart the Salle des États via the Mona Lisa present store, we flip to the Crimson Room, which is crammed with the perfect of Neoclassical artwork, from David’s Coronation of Napoleon to Ingres’ Grande Odalisque, one of the lovely ladies within the Louvre. Then we return to the opposite gallery subsequent to the Salon Denon to see what Romanticism did finest in Géricault’s Raft of the Medusa and Delacroix’s Liberty Main the Individuals. After this we’ll discover ourselves on the Escalier Mollien, which we descend to witness how Michelangelo captured in marble the fantastic thing about two slaves. Et voilà, we’ve seen a few of the finest the Louvre has to supply.

Now for my soiled little secret about the best way to conquer the Louvre stress-free. Whereas entry is free for a lot of, the worth of a regular ticket is 22 euros (about $23) and anticipated to price 30 euros (about $31) in 2026. Should you plan to go to a number of occasions over the course of a visit, splurge and change into a Good friend of the Louvre. For 80 euros—the worth of dinner with wine at a good bistro—you should purchase an annual membership (120 euros for 2 individuals). You may apply prematurely on-line, with a photograph; the cardboard shall be mailed to you. Or apply in particular person on the Amis du Louvre workplace contained in the Louvre. You simply wave the cardboard on the Richelieu entrance, get pleasure from limitless entry, minimize the road like a celeb, and keep for so long as you need. It’s the finest cultural deal in Paris.

Launch an opération séduction on the workers. “Should you’re a traditional particular person, you would possibly really feel aggressive and annoyed,” Guillaume Kientz, director of the Hispanic Society Museum & Library in New York and a former Louvre curator, advised me. “As an alternative, be extraordinarily good to all the staff—say ‘Bonjour’ to all the safety guards. They may use appreciation from the guests, as a result of they’re those nobody seems to be at besides to complain. If you deal with a French particular person with kindness, all of the doorways will open for you.” 

When all of it feels overwhelming, head to a quiet place: the decrease flooring of Islamic Arts, maybe, or the rooms with the Poussin work, or a marble bench within the Marly sculpture courtyard. Simply say to your self again and again, “I am in Paris. I’m within the Louvre.” 

Excerpted from Adventures within the Louvre: Fall in Love With the World’s Biggest Museum, printed this month by W. W. Norton & Firm.

A model of this story first appeared within the March 2025 problem of Journey + Leisure underneath the headline “Studying to Love the Louvre.”