Koh Lanta Is One in every of Thailand’s Greatest Hidden Gems

Koh Lanta, an island within the southern Andaman Sea off Thailand’s west coast, is without doubt one of the nation’s true hidden gems.

There aren’t any Western chains right here. No bar ladies. There may be nonetheless unbuilt beachfront, though in 5 years it might be gone. There are plans to construct a bridge that can quickly join Koh Lanta to the mainland. As soon as it is performed, it’s going to be a straightforward 45 minutes to Krabi Worldwide Airport (KBV). However that’s a journey author’s fear for an additional day. 

For now, Koh Lanta stays comparatively undiscovered, particularly by People. Throughout my second consecutive January go to—November to March are one of the best months to return to the island by way of the climate—I didn’t meet one other American. Scandinavians, nevertheless, are a special story. There are nonstop flights from Stockholm to Krabi Worldwide Airport, and I spoke to fairly a number of Swedes and Norwegians who have been keen to flee the winter darkness. I discovered loads of these snowbirds at each Rawi Warin Resort & Spa, a kid-friendly luxurious lodge, and at Pimalai Resort & Spa, one of many island’s high properties (it has two Michelin Keys)—my spouse and I spent an almost excellent week there this yr.

Based 22 years in the past on 100 unspoiled acres, Pimalai boasts 3,000 toes of prime Kantiang beachfront. Most mornings, I slow-jogged its complete size, which verges on the Platonic excellent of a tropical seashore: principally empty, with comfortable sand that may be discovered each out and in of the mild water. Pimalai is luxurious performed proper, with extra seashore and poolside lounges than lodge company. Whereas there are small resorts at each ends of Kantiang, within the morning, I noticed nearly nobody.

Due to the terrain, Pimalai looks like two resorts, every with an infinity pool and eating places. There are solely 121 whole lodging. Deluxe rooms are situated close to the seashore, whereas pool villas are tucked into the terraced hillside. All company get entry to round-trip van service to the Krabi Airport and a speedboat switch to Pimalai’s pier—this cuts 45 minutes off journey time. Once more, actual luxurious.

One memorable morning, my spouse and I have been picked up at Pimalai to start a day-long snorkeling constitution to Koh Haa and Koh Rak. As a result of we’re previous and artful, we sat up entrance beside the motive force, Jaroon, whereas different passengers crammed into uncomfortable bench seats within the mattress of the pickup. After 40 years of chasing the solar on unspoiled (after which solely barely spoiled) Thai seashores, we’ve realized that one of the best a part of journey is the folks you meet and speak to. Like most Thai folks, Jaroon was mild, affable, and warmly pleasant to vacationers. He apologized for his English (which was fairly good) and laughed once I advised him my identify was “Khun Khon-di,” which roughly interprets to “Mister Goodman.”

As a result of Koh Lanta is within the far south of Thailand—close to Malaysia—90 p.c of its inhabitants are Muslim, together with Jaroon. He admitted that lots of his associates drank alcohol, though he didn’t, maybe as a result of he had 500 rubber bushes on his property, from which he gathered latex every morning beginning at 3:30 am, earlier than going to work. Revenue from his rubber bushes doubled his month-to-month wage as a driver, which had enabled Jaroon to ship his daughter to school in Bangkok, a truth of which he was justifiably proud.

The snorkeling that day on Koh Rak was spectacular. I noticed plenty of wholesome comfortable and exhausting coral. There have been fish in all places, massive and small, and although I’ve been diving and snorkeling in Thai waters for fairly a while, I noticed one thing I’d by no means seen earlier than: a 15-legged crown-of-thorns starfish. It was an electrical blue mammoth with black thorns peppering its floor.

On the boat again from Koh Rak to the pier, our captain made a detour previous a mangrove forest inhabited by a big band of swimming, fruit-loving monkeys. I’d by no means seen monkeys within the water earlier than, however I bought the concept these monkeys eagerly awaited our boat’s arrival for his or her each day deal with of leftover watermelon and pineapple.

One night later within the week, we employed Jaroon to drive us to Outdated City, on the east aspect of Koh Lanta. This coast fronts the Straits of Malacca, reasonably than the Andaman Sea, and lies alongside a standard commerce path to Malaysia. The east coast of the island doesn’t have sandy seashores or upscale resorts, however it does have Moken (a gaggle of Indigenous sea nomads) communities. The opposite huge attraction of this distinctive place is the easy eating places which are constructed on wood pilings—we listened to the waves break as we feasted on squid and grouper.

We beloved our time on Koh Lanta and at Pimalai, which was extremely well-run; our room was serviced, unobtrusively, 3 times a day. The worldwide breakfast buffet included obscure regional specialties, Thai noodle soup, an array of tropical fruit, and natural juices. The meals at Rak Talay, the beachside seafood restaurant the place we frequently ate dinner, was not solely luxurious, however for a five-star, surprisingly reasonably priced.  Should you go to, strive the soft-shell crabs. You’ll be amazed by the flavour and by what number of crabs comprise a single order. 

I can nonetheless style them—and hope to once more.