Gourmand Eating North of the Arctic Circle

Ilulissat is Greenland’s tourism capital. Situated on the island’s west coast, 250 km (155 mi) north of the Arctic Circle, its UNESCO World Heritage Listed Icefjord attracts guests from across the globe. For these in search of extra in the way in which of solitude, a stroll up the coast to the remoted settlement of Oqaatsut affords a possibility to expertise a unique facet of Greenland. A journey again in time to a spot the place sleepy coves and weather-beaten fishing cottages whisper maritime tales of centuries previous.

Seaside campsite close to Oqaatsut.

At a Look

Distance:  41 km (25.5 mi)

Common Length:  10 hours to 2 days

Problem Stage:  Simple

Season: Late June to September

Complete Elevation Acquire: 946 m (3,104 ft)

Begin/End:  Resort Arctic in Ilullisat (Out-and-back)

The settlement of Oqaatsut at sundown.

Highlights

• The colourful, weather-worn cottages that dot the coast between Ilulissat and Oqaatsut
• Disko Bay’s endless parade of icebergs of all sizes and styles
• Consuming at H8 restaurant
• Sundown out of your seaside campsite

Planning Info:

• Getting There & Away: Most vacationers arrive in Ilussiat by way of an inner flight from Kangerlussuaq, Nuuk, or Sisimiut or a world flight from Reykjavik. For these with loads of time, Ilulissat will also be reached by common ferries from the capital Nuuk, together with different smaller villages on Greenland’s west coast.
  

The Ilulissat Icefjord is the ocean mouth of the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier (aka Jakobshavn Glacier), which is likely one of the solely shops by means of which the Greenland Ice Sheet reaches the ocean. 

With a inhabitants of 4600, Ilulissat is Greenland’s third largest city (after Nuuk and Sisimiut).

En route between Kangerlussuaq and Ilulissat on Air Greenland.

• Permits & Charges: No, on each counts.

• On-line Info: For normal info on Oqaatsut, see the informative Go to Greenland web site. For some nice pictures from each the village and the hike, try mloram.com.

A cold September morning on the return hike from Oqaatsut to Ilulissat.

Lodging:

• There’s an abundance of pre and post-hike lodging choices in Ilulissat. Should you’re on the lookout for a cut price – good luck. “Price range” lodging in Ilulissat will set you again a minimum of US$150 throughout the summer time months.

• On the path itself, nice tenting is accessible on the southern outskirts of Oqaatsut village, simply earlier than you make the brief descent to the graveyard. 

• For these on the lookout for extra in the way in which of luxurious, attempt Resort Nordlys, which overlooks Rodebay.

Path Description:

The path to Oqaatsut is well-marked with rock cairns and orange blazes and doubles as a dog-sledding and snowmobile observe throughout the winter months. The path receives little foot site visitors in comparison with Ilulissat’s well-known Icefjord pathways, and most of the people who go to Oqaatsut achieve this by way of organized boat journeys.

The journey begins in Ilulissat reverse the Resort Arctic, the world’s northernmost four-star lodge. The primary couple of kilometers are comparatively uninspiring because the path parallels the native airport, which after I hiked in 2022, was present process a big growth (now on account of be completed in 2026). After 30 or 40 minutes, the airport shall be behind you, and issues will enhance aesthetically and audibly. Certainly, from then till you arrive at Oqaatsut, chances are high you gained’t see one other soul, and the one sounds you hear shall be these of Mom Nature.

Staying near the coast, the path goes by quite a few fishing cottages, whose brightly-colored exteriors make a placing distinction with the drab-gray rocky shoreline and leaden-hued waters. Roughly 7.5 km (4.7 mi) after leaving Ilulissat, you’ll go by means of a slim gorge earlier than rising at a small picturesque lake – an ideal spot for lunch. One other hour onwards, and also you’ll attain a footbridge spanning the outlet stream of the expansive Kangerluarsup Tasia Qalleq Lakes. Campers word that the grassy, semi-sheltered space on the southern facet of the watercourse is arguably the very best place to in a single day between Ilullisat and the outskirts of Oqaatsut.

Kangerluarsup Tasia Qalleq Lakes

From right here, the well-marked route ascends progressively and contours northwest across the tiny settlement of Qarajaq Cove. The views over the iceberg-dotted Kangerluarsuk Bay throughout this elevated stretch are excellent. After going up and over a slim, rocky saddle on the 16 km (9.9 mi) level, the path passes by a small waterfall earlier than reaching the fishing village of Oqaatsut, simply over 20 km (12.4 mi) from Ilulissat. 

Qarajaq Cove

Notes & Musings

• The Village of Oqaatsut: Previously a buying and selling submit for Dutch whalers within the 18th century, Oqaatsut has a inhabitants of roughly 40 and is just accessible by water or foot throughout the fleeting summer time season. Located on a small peninsula protruding from the mainland, aside from its ramshackle assortment of colourful cottages, Oqaatsut consists of a fish processing plant, a church (which doubles as a schoolhouse), a cemetery, a small comfort retailer, and final however not least, arguably the best restaurant north of the Arctic Circle.

Oqaatsut Cemetery

• H8 Restaurant: The H8 restaurant in Oqaatsut affords a connoisseur eating expertise in probably the most unlikely of areas. The restaurant’s title derives from the US navy’s former place-name/postcode system for Greenland, whereby throughout WW II, the numbers had been painted on distinguished rooftops as navigation aids for passing Air Pressure pilots. The H8 focuses on conventional native delicacies, together with muskoxen, reindeer, and seafood choices equivalent to shrimp, mussels, halibut, seal, and darkish whale meat. Costs on the H8 are removed from low cost, however contemplating its singular location and the standard of the meals on provide, having fun with one in all their three-course meals for lunch or dinner is an expertise to not be missed when visiting Oqaatsut.

• Sitting on a Rock of the Bay: After ending dinner on the H8, I waddled south of the village to pitch my tent. As soon as every thing was arrange, I headed over to a flat rock on the shoreline of Disko Bay. As I watched the icebergs floating by and the sky turning fifty shades of crimson, I ate some Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate and smiled a type of massive smiles that begins within the coronary heart. I sat there till it began to get colder, after which adjourned to my shelter the place I slipped into my quilt, and watched some extra. 

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Word: The out-and-back stroll to Oqaatsut is one in all 26 featured trails in Wanderlust Nordics. My fifth collaboration with Gestalten Publishing, the guide options all kinds of rambles in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands. From family-friendly day journeys to difficult multi-week treks, there’s one thing to go well with everybody from newbies to skilled vets.