Not solely have I spent a major period of time in New England however I lived within the Boston space for over a decade. Throughout that chapter of my life, We Weblog the World didn’t exist nor was I writing about journey. That mentioned, my recollections are recent and vivid, from enjoyable cultural and social occasions to getting misplaced in nature.
We headed again East this summer season and have been in a position to return to my favourite haunts. How a lot have they modified? In truth, I used to be stunned at how little had modified. Let’s begin with Boston itself. Certain, there’s much less building (and disruption) than once I lived there; nonetheless, different highway work continues. We arrived late at night time, so leaping on Storrow Drive to move out to an AirBNB in Waltham was pretty stress-free (and fast) however returning to Logan was a little bit of a problem as a result of present work on the Sumner Tunnel. My staple route alongside the Charles River was a well-recognized one, a lot in order that I used to be on auto-pilot for many of the journey.
Fairly frankly, writing this text, after little or no journey throughout the quieter years of Covid, feels extra “overseas” than visiting my outdated stomping grounds, which embrace Newton, Watertown, Cambridge, Somerville, Jamaica Plain, Walden Pond, Rockport, Gloucester, and Cape Cod (not essentially in that order).
Oh yeah, and let’s not overlook Belmont the place I lived for a stint . . . a protracted one. That drive-by was a bit emotional as reminiscence after reminiscence got here pouring by way of, together with the time my ex and I watched the squirrels from our bed room window operating alongside the fence and strategized how we may deter them from mucking about in our tomato crops. The barbecues, yard e book group gatherings, cooking up a storm in our loud apricot ginger kitchen, and shoveling the driveway each winter. The brand new house owners (renters?) planted a vegetable backyard within the entrance and amidst squash, lettuce and peppers, just a few tall and sprightly sunflowers greeted me from the sidewalk.
There was no time to go to Nantucket this time round; nonetheless, examine our journey 8 years in the past and make sure to see the breathtaking summer season sunflowers we encountered throughout a motorcycle experience. When you do head to Nantucket or Martha’s Winery, just a few gems price exploring in Cape Cod in your method embrace Chatham, Truro and Wellfleet.
We returned to Gloucester’s Rocky Neck and went down reminiscence lane (see our journey a few years in the past which we took in by bike). Actually, if you happen to examine the images, you’ll see loads of similarities: the quirkiness of the retailers, the inventive flare of the artists’ exterior studio facades, the colourful flowers in entrance of the stained-colored buildings and galleries. The weathered look from chipped paint on entrance homes, bikes, boats and cafe doorways. It was a lot quieter than I remembered.
The primary addition to our expertise this yr was a melancholy story shared by artisan Stephen Laptierre, whose work took over the most important gallery house within the Artwork Colony. Artisans are actually the breath of Rocky Neck. There’s a historical past right here and locals are rightfully happy with that historical past, one which has drawn artists and musicians alike to arrange foot on her soil for years.
Artists have had a tough time sustaining their studios with prices hovering and fewer vacationers coming by way of. Little doubt, a part of it may be attributed to the Covid years which affected so many store house owners, eating places and cafes. That mentioned, it appeared like the problem went a lot deeper as we listened to Stephen’s insights. He lives in his studio, so the lease for his gallery is mixed together with his price to dwell—it’s the exact same house he lays his head to relaxation each night time. Under, Anthony appears to be like on as he shares story after story, together with the meanings behind every of the work. What a riveting experience and but I sensed a deep unhappiness, as if we have been on the point of an finish to a very particular period.
His studio was actually eclectic and work lined each single wall, from ceiling to ground on all sides, together with the hallway main out to an exterior picket stairway that took you right down to the primary avenue. Off to the left was a sink, range and tea kettle and there was a sofa someplace within the midst of all of it if I recall. And a desk.
It’s not all artwork in Rocky Neck however the galleries are what most draw folks to go to. There’s additionally the uncooked and genuine ambiance of crusing life throughout you, dock after dock, boat after boat . . . This distinctive treasure is located on a rocky peninsula tucked away inside Gloucester’s working harbor.
Gloucester
Rocky Neck isn’t all there may be to Gloucester. There are a number of quaint neighborhoods together with just a few procuring areas which I like to walk. Who doesn’t love cafes, vintage shops and quaint boutiques in New England? When you don’t, then I’d argue you won’t gel with New England. In spite of everything, it’s the connection to all issues historic (not less than by American requirements) that convey folks to the Northeast. Since Anthony and I grew up within the area, it was like going residence: the residence we grew up figuring out by way of its distinctive smells, tastes and sights.
Rockport
A stone’s throw from Gloucester lies Rockport, and it tends to be custom to go to at any time when I’m within the space. Perhaps the draw is Rockport’s acquainted toffee and ice cream retailers, or the pewter retailer I do know so properly. Or maybe its the numerous enjoyable instances I’ve had alongside its pedestrian walkway and the handfuls of lobsters I’ve eaten there, inside and out. One of the notorious picturesque views in New England might be present in Rockport though some Maine natives may argue with me on that one.
As many instances as I’ve been to Rockport, I had by no means set foot within the church on the left alongside Broadway. I by no means had a purpose to; nonetheless, this time we ventured into St. Mary’s Episcopal Church out of curiosity. I had forgotten how a lot I like outdated church buildings and cathedrals; it’s one of many issues that make meandering by way of outdated European cities so fascinating. They inform a narrative: a area or metropolis’s tradition. Its historical past. Perception programs are baked into their partitions and stained glass home windows. They continue to be alive by way of the vitality they emit as you look on.
Included within the stained-glass home windows at St. Mary’s is a communion roll initially supposed for a aspect chapel, which presents a collage of Yeshua’s (Jesus’) parables. A sanctuary candle consistently burns and there’s an altar designed to be the aumbry the place the Blessed Sacrament is reserved.
There are fairly just a few artwork galleries to absorb, notably Don Gorvett, Jeffrey Marshall, North Shore Arts Affiliation, Marilyn Swift, Cripple Cove Studios, Michalak High-quality Artwork, Stefan Mierz High-quality Artwork Studio, Ruth Mordecai, and Judythe Evans Meagher amongst quite a few others.
Rockport most likely isn’t the very best place to get lobster within the space, largely as a result of it’s costlier than heading a bit additional north alongside Route 1. There are many locations to get seafood, both sitting down or grabbing a cuppa New England creamy chowder to go. On the very finish of Bearskin Neck (#68 to be exact), you’ll discover My Place by the Sea and it didn’t appear like it modified in any respect for the reason that final time we had a romantic meal on their deck roughly eight years in the past. We have been planning to repeat the expertise however it was closed, so we headed to Fleur Delicacies Harborside on the wharf as a substitute. The ambiance was beautiful; nonetheless, the meals was solely good, not nice and the service was bit disappointing.
One other favourite spot is Floating Lotus. In years gone previous, we used to attend their sound baths on the highest ground. Homeowners are husband and spouse workforce Justin and Karin, who do an awesome job at curating distinctive objects. Principally from Asia, these honest commerce objects vary from jewellery and tapestries, to singing bowls, garments and statues. On this go to, Anthony walked out with an attractive labradorite ring we have been each instantly drawn to. They maintain sound experiences of their Bearskin Neck location and bigger spiritually-minded occasions at their Gloucester location alongside Essential Avenue.
Salem
Roughly eight years in the past, we spent a couple of month touring varied elements of New England, most of it spent in Massachusetts. You should definitely see our write-up on Salem the place we landed by chance. We have been stunned by how a lot enjoyable we had there. When you love historical past, are dazzled by spirituality or the occult, the American residence of witches will make sure to whet your urge for food. Sadly, we weren’t in a position to meet up with Lori Bruno, seemingly probably the most famend witch in Salem if not the nation.
She touts herself as a Hereditary Excessive Priestess and Elder of the Sicilian Strega line of the Craft of the Clever, founder and Head Mom of Our Lord and Girl of the Trinacrian Rose Church. We have been in a position to catch her by telephone and her voice introduced us again to yesteryear and the visions we had of our time together with her in her mystical store Magika on Federal Avenue. With a connection to Egypt as properly, she is a descendant of Gohar–al–Siculi, a Common within the Fataniid Empire, who in A.D. 969 was despatched by the caliph of Baghdad to overcome Egypt. Based on her, this he did after which went on to discovered Cairo. Under is a shot taken with Lori in her retailer.
We spent a number of days in Salem on our final go to, so took in among the witch excursions (by day and night time), segway-ed our method by way of city, walked the cemeteries by night time, ate fabulous meals (yum – Finz Seafood & Grill) and skilled just a few accommodations. We additionally managed to get out on a ship, a schooner and extra. The climate didn’t cooperate this time round as we have been greeted by torrential rainfall upon arrival. The sustaining drizzly skies drove us into the large block lengthy Witch Metropolis Consignment Store by chance. Once you’re operating for canopy, any open retailer will do. Situated on Essex Avenue, it was simply mystical and mesmerizing sufficient to maintain us busy for just a few hours whereas ready for the rain to subside. We left with two packing containers of goodies, all of which we shipped residence. If that is your “factor,” you may additionally wish to word different retailers price visiting, reminiscent of Hex Outdated World Witchery, The Cauldron Black Enchanted Store and the HausWitch Dwelling & Therapeutic.
Boston
A stroll by way of Boston’s historic district and Quincy Market was an effective way to spend our remaining afternoon on this outdated American metropolis. In spite of everything, Anthony had by no means been to this a part of town and I used to be curious to see how issues had modified. And naturally I ached to purchase one thing of their notorious meals corridor. On the way in which, we took a leisurely stroll alongside the waterfront, taking within the websites and wonder.
A panoramic view of the harbor and waterfront space in historic Boston.
Heading towards Quincy Market alongside the water. The sunshine is totally gorgeous at nightfall.
Under, a bit meandering by way of Quincy Market Meals Corridor.
Okay, so I obtained carried away by the dessert shade.
Then we headed to the North Finish for dinner and occasional, beginning at Naples-influenced Ristorante Saraceno, excellent for Anthony’s heritage and desire for southern Italian dishes. It’s a staple — not the very best Italian meals on the planet, however it’s GOOD and the ambiance is epic.
Under, a few the mains . . .
Then there’s Francesca’s alongside the identical foremost drag and solely a stone’s throw from Seraceno.
Though locals might argue that there are different cafes that trump the cappuccino at Caffe Vittoria, it stays one among my favourite spots, largely due to the recollections of my youth. All these late nights ingesting espresso after lengthy work nights. And to prime it off, little or no has modified concerning the place. In different phrases, it’s as I remembered. The ambiance. The tables, chairs, espresso, desserts, lighting — all of it.
Generally, you’ve simply obtained to indulge your inside youngster and relive the tastes, smells and experiences of yesteryear simply because. Fortunately our associates indulged us each step of the way in which.
Somerville
Though I wrote earlier that so many issues felt related strolling on outdated roads, stopping in retailers of outdated and re-visiting favourite eating places and cafes, it wasn’t the identical, largely as a result of I’m not the identical. That mentioned, it introduced me nice pleasure to drink and dine once more in a few of my outdated neighborhoods. Somerville’s Dali continues to be alive and kicking. A Spanish Tapas Bar simply outdoors Cambridge’s border, it was the proper spot to assemble twenty or so outdated associates from my time residing within the space.
Whereas the tapas are nonetheless heavenly, it’s the ambiance that brings me again time and again. They nonetheless ship on that distinctive old-world expertise fifteen years later.
New Hampshire’s Coast
When you cross over into New Hampshire, there’s lots to see inland, which embrace nice hikes and weekend getaways, however we simply love the coast. This previous journey solely allowed for southern New Hampshire adventures as a result of time constraints; nonetheless, we used to drive up Route 1 typically from Boston, exploring the small cities alongside the coast and we did the identical for a lot of Maine as properly.
Like Maine, there are many lobster shacks, however the trendier city of Portsmouth not solely provides trendy culinary spots to dine however has nice structure. Additional south simply over the Massachusetts border is Newburyport the place I spent numerous time in my thirties. On this journey, we stayed with associates in Hampton and went out to dinner nightly, visiting their favourite eateries—what a deal with. Scroll under for just a few of these memorable experiences.
In the course of the day, we walked up and down the seashores, amassing seaweed, rocks and shells for my varied artwork tasks like I at all times do once I journey. You possibly can dine in or buy clams, oysters, lobster, crab and different seafood to cook dinner at residence.
Kittery Maine
There’s not a lot to this artsy little city simply over the Maine border, however we went major to drink and eat. And take a look at artwork after all. It’s a stunning stroll down the primary drag and there are some great walks and hikes close by.
Ingesting & Eating
If you would like a extra informal expertise merely to get your “lobster repair” in southern NH, just a few choices embrace Brown’s Lobster Pound (we had one picnic desk model earlier than heading out of city) and Markey’s Lobster Pool, each in Seabrook, Al’s Seafood in North Hampton, Smitty’s State Pier Lobster Pound in Hampton, Ray’s Seafood in Rye and Lobster Boat Restaurant in Litchfield, the latter of which is a recognized spot for old-school seafood and pasta.
Under, my lobster order earlier than and after.
Whereas I needed to succumb to 2 roadside lobster meals, we additionally wished to attempt just a few elegant and tasteful eating spots and our native foodie associates Gail and Steve have been the proper hosts.
First, we ventured to Black Trumpet in Portsmouth which provides a seasonal, eclectic menu with gluten free, vegetarian, vegan and nut free choices in addition. They provide a superb Cheese and Charcuterie Plate or you possibly can go for their Shrimp Ceviche Tostada with Cucumber-Nasturtium Pico to kick off your meal. Anthony and I needed to attempt the Tea-Smoked Duck Breast with Beet-Noodle Seaweed Salad and Black Garlic Nigella Emulsion. Merely put, it was to die for.
Essential course choices embrace a Brandade Crusted Halibut with Succotash, Swiss Chard, Marinated Tomatoes and Zucchini Sauce, a Soy-Brined Iberico Pork Loin with Buckwheat Noodles, Bok Choy, Umeboshi Plum Puree and Tempura Scallions and a Pan-Fried Zucchini Feta Cake with Mushrooms, Native Greens, Beet Yogurt and Orange Blossom Honey. (Be aware the Asian affect)
Desserts have been equally divine, with Chocolate and Cherry Clafoutis and Spiced Mascarpone and Cherry Syrup, and White Chocolate Panna Cotta with Shaved Enna Chocolate and Nilla Water Crumbs all on the menu. And the way about this one? Sweetheart Beet and Plum Swiss Roll with Mascarpone Buttercream and Maple Creme Anglaise? Are you able to say Heavenly thrice after just a few cocktails and any of those delicious sweets?
For cocktails, a should go to is the ever so distinctive bar in Kittery Maine referred to as The Wallingford Dram.
Let’s simply say that all of their cocktails had us at hi there. Uncommon mixes embrace the next (they have been too wonderful to not publish intimately):
- A Fist within the Mouth of Time: Bourbon, Smoke, Fernet, Espresso Brandy, Bitters, Lavender
- We Are Nonetheless Us: Buttered Hay Washed Brandy, Black Pepper, Cumin and Orange Curacao with Egg White and Lemon
- Victims of Late Success: Bourbon, Aperol, Mango, Pine, Preserved Lemon, Coco Blast, Nogori Sake (sure, actually), Seltzer and Mint
- Jupiter Jazz: Jalapeno-infused Mezcal, Amaro Montenegro, Passionfruit, Lemon, Orgeat, Szechuan Peppercorns
- By Witchcraft: Cranberry Infused Gin, Dry Curacao, Lime, Cassia, Creme De Violette (excellent for the area)
- Tankgirl: Tequila, Aperol, Cherry Heering, Lemon, Orgeat, Pineapple and African Birdseye Chili
- Excessive Priestess: Raspberry-Hisbiscus Gin, Blackberry, Lime, Dry Curacao, Chocolate Bitters and Egg White (gotta love the title)
- Dame Shrub: Gin, Rosemary Pear Shrub, Lemon, Ginger, Essential Hemlock, Seltzer
- A Secret Backyard Highball: Earl Gray Tea Vodka, Home Bitter Lemon Soda
- Boat Cowboy: Tequila, Boubon, Allspice Dram, Pineapple Gomme, Birds Eye Chilli and Bitters
- Northsea Lineman: Rye with Islay Scotch, Maraschino, Pune e Mes, Bitters and Salt
- Leatherman: Bourbon, Carpano Antica, Lapsang Souchong Liqueur and Bitters (Anthony had two – hey, we weren’t driving)
- One thing for Timmy: Olive Oil Washed Bourbon, Inexperienced Chartreuse and Bitters
- Eddy and the Bridge: Strawberries, Peychaud’s Bitters, Pineapple Gomme, Tequila, Guajilo Pepper, Lemon, Seltzer and Thai Basil
Wow proper? I may go on however you get the thought. Extremely inventive, various and weird. We may have sat there all night time.
Additionally in Kittery Maine is Anneke Jans, which can also be an uncommon discover for the realm. Begin your night time with cocktails at The Walllingford Dram after which stroll over to Anneke Jans for dinner. They provide European-influenced American dinners, small plates and drinks in a snazzy, cosmopolitan setting.
We began off with Oysters and Mussels as a result of how may you not in the event that they’re on the menu? The chef prepares their Maine mussels with bacon, onions, white wine, cream, and Nice Hill blue cheese. Yum, proper?
Different delicious bites at this magical spot embrace Lobster Salad with Inexperienced Corn Relish and Avocado Mousse, Grilled Scallops with Succatosh, Candy Corn Soubise, Citrus and Leeks, their Scottish Salmon with Mango Quinoa Salad, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bok Choy and Miso Ginger Glaze, and Steak Frites with Romesco.
You should definitely take a look at two current articles on simply meals within the space: High Boston Foodie Picks by Class and Delicious Northeast Restaurant Information.
Mass Pike to Upstate New York (Facet Journey)
I name this part a aspect journey for the reason that Adirondacks usually are not technically thought-about New England, though the small cities in upstate New York are similar to many of the cities I’ve visited in Maine (particularly Maine), NH and Vermont with solely minor nuances. We grew up within the Adirondacks so there are many articles to learn and footage to soak up. I wished to level to 5 Highlights to this explicit journey.
1. Exploring the Nice Sacandaga Lake by Boat
Hire a ship and get out on the Sacandaga Lake on the base of the Adirondack Mountains. There are eating places the place you possibly can dock and have lunch on a stunning sunny afternoon (solely works from June till August)
2. Artwork Trails in August
Every summer season, Fulton County has a weekend Artwork Stroll and we lucked out this yr as we have been on the town for it. All through Mayfield, Gloversville, Northville, Edinburg, Wells and Broadalbin, you possibly can go to artists’ galleries, a few of that are of their houses.
Our favourite artist picks this yr embrace Alexandra Higgins whose medium is essentially oil and acrylics on canvas and sculptor, Robyn Isabella whose medium is essentially working with copper and mosaic tiles (she technically wasn’t on this yr’s Artwork Stroll however she’s my sister, so she will get a name out since her work is amaaaazing), Panorama oil painter Marion Kratky and Michele Johnsen, who makes a speciality of Driftwood Artwork.
Under is Mosaic Artwork by Robyn Valentine.
Galleries ranged from garages, houses, and barns to co-ops, conventional workplace buildings and past.
For extra data, take a look at the Sacandaga Valley Arts Community and the SVAN Arts Heart – they’re svanarts on Fb and primarily based in Northville NY. Under are just a few photographs I took alongside the highway close to Gloversville New York.
3. Lenox Massachusetts is a enjoyable place to discover if you happen to’re heading to upstate New York. You should definitely cease by the standard and ever-so historic Pink Lion Inn. Sit on the porch, order some biscuits, a cheese plate and an enormous pot of tea. We browsed among the cute retailers alongside the primary drag of Lenox for an hour or so earlier than grabbing some drinks and assembly an outdated pal.
Under, simply outdoors The Pink Lion Inn in Lenox.
4. Coxsackie New York. There’s not a lot right here, however a pleasant lunch spot is Yanni’s Restaurant alongside the river the place I managed to meet up with an outdated highschool pal and his spouse.
5. Vintage-ing
We solely visited a handful of vintage retailers in Northville and Gloversville this yr. On our method again to Boston, we spent extra time than we anticipated in a Ballston Spa Vintage Emporium. A number of hours truly. Sure, actually. The place is fabulous and if you happen to love conventional (outdated) unique work, they’ve a ton of choices adorning practically each wall. We left with some artwork, a big picket horse head and a ceramic bowl I couldn’t go away behind. Evidently, touring residence was a little bit of a problem however we made it with out one factor breaking. Thank God for bubble wrap.
A lot extra might be mentioned about our journey again East. Eating places and cafes have been not noted, particulars missed, nature walks and riveting conversations omitted. Extra footage have been taken. Extra bread was damaged. Extra recollections have been made. For me anyway, America’s Nice Northeast is at all times definitely worth the journey. Thanks for the sweetness of all of it.