Our go to to Persona, positioned within the prestigious Östermalm space of Stockholm, started with a pleasant wave from one of many workers as we have been welcomed by way of the arched façade of a chic constructing at Torstenssonsgatan 11. From the second we stepped inside, it was clear that this wasn’t going to be simply one other meal, however a culinary journey completely aligned with the upscale environment. With a number of members of the crew having honed their abilities at Frantzén, one in every of Sweden’s most famous and Michelin-starred eating places, we knew we may very well be in for a really particular expertise. On this assessment, I’ll stroll you thru our night so you may decide for your self whether or not Persona actually lives as much as its prime location in one in every of Stockholm’s most unique neighbourhoods.
The meals
Let’s start with the meals. We had the seasonal tasting menu titled ‘Summer season with Monika’. We weren’t given a menu so that every course got here as a surpise to us, which was a pleasant means of doing issues, though I did in fact request a replica (to not spoil the surprises, however only for the needs of this write-up).
Every course is described in only a handful of phrases punctuated by ahead slashes, even when the creation of the dishes isn’t fairly so simple as the menu suggests, so we started proceedings with “croustade / veal tartar / gribiche”, an fascinating and really scrumptious tackle a French traditional, topped with white kombu.
Drawing its inspiration from South America, the “cajun tartelette / candy corn / ranch dressing” was a flavourful Cajun tarte full of a light-weight and ethereal corn soufflé, drizzled with creamy ranch dressing. This comforting dish was not overly spicy however nonetheless provided daring flavors to please the palate.
A showstopper with regards to seems to be is the “truffle choux / monbazillac / tête de moine” – a fragile choux pastry full of wealthy, earthy preserved winter truffle, elegantly topped with frilly curls of Swiss cheese to offer a surprising visible distinction. A drizzle of Monbazillac, a candy wine from Périgord, provides a luscious sweetness to a dish that was as pleasing to the attention because it was to the tastebuds.
A French traditional – crispy pommes dauphine – was given a inventive twist in recognition of the much-celebrated Swedish midsummer with “pommes dauphine / truffle seaweed / matjessill” – designed to be eaten in a single chunk and served with an earthy truffle seaweed and matjessill (Swedish pickled herring). This distinctive pairing of French methods and Swedish flavours was offered on prime of an eye catching, midsummer-inspired floral show.
After this course, we have been invited right down to the wine cellar. As a substitute of studying by way of the wine checklist, diners are invited to seek out out what fits them greatest by way of dialog and an exploration of their likes and dislikes.
The cellar can also be the place you may view the produce getting used within the menu is showcased in a refrigerated show.
While we have been nonetheless within the cellar, we have been offered with “foie gras / macaron / cloudberry” which captured the essence of French and Swedish culinary cultures by marrying the French delicacy of foie gras with the distinctive, seasonal and sweet-tart attraction of Swedish cloudberries.
Again upstairs, “halibut / ajo blanco / sturgeon caviar / elderflower” featured a fragile halibut crudo served with a easy and creamy ajo blanco (a standard Spanish almond and garlic soup) with floral notes from elderflower vinegar and an expensive contact of Ossietta sturgeon caviar from Poland. This dish proved to be one of many night’s highlights and complemented the halibut fantastically.
The “squid / XO / lumpfish roe / pine” was an modern noodle dish, that includes tender squid paired with a wealthy XO sauce and opulent lumpfish roe. The addition of finger lime launched a burst of citrus fantastically counterbalancing the earthiness of the pine.
At Persona, they be sure that their scallops are meticulously ready and delivered straight from Hitra, Norway, the place they’re harvested by hand, which works a protracted solution to explaining why the “scallop / vanilla / caviar / tiger bread / tarama”, which options three of the chef’s favorite elements, was a powerful success. Norwegian scallops are thought of a few of the world’s greatest, due to the chilly waters during which they develop, imparting a singular sweetness and richness which undoubtedly got here by way of on this dish.
It was at this level within the proceedings that we loved schnapps and even a vigorous rendition of a Swedish tune from the ready workers, offering one other nod to Swedish midsummer, a time when Swedes sometimes drink schnapps and beer whereas indulging in crayfish alongside västerbottenpaj (a västerbotten cheese pie).
The “västerbotten chawanmushi / crayfish / trout roe” is a fragile steamed egg custard infused with västerbotten cheese, accompanied by tender crayfish, sakkiwash trout roe, sea buckthorn oil and really fairly crown dill. This dish represents a French chef’s inventive interpretation of Swedish traditions in a contemporary, Japanese means – wondefully creamy with the sweetness of the crayfish balancing fantastically with the refined brininess of the trout roe.
The “chūtoro / foie gras / kampot pepper / black radish” which adopted had a meltingly tender texture that’s attribute of this particular lower of bluefin tuna, while the fermented black pepper sauce gave the dish an additional layer of depth and richness.
The “beef / chimichurri / shiso tempura” featured probably the most scrumptious and succulent wagyu beef, complemented by a vibrant and zesty chimichurri sauce, topped with a crispy shiso tempura. This lovely fusion of Latin American and Japanese flavours labored extraordinarily properly and made this a stand-out dish for me.
The “tiramisu / truffle / px / gavotte” is Persona’s modern tackle the traditional tiramisu, enhanced with a French contact. This contemporary interpretation contains a crispy gavotte from Brittany, paying homage to a fluffy crêpe, served with a cold-infused espresso ice cream made out of sustainable Ethiopian espresso beans, in addition to a mascarpone cream with a crunchy praline made out of almonds and a cookie crumble. Ending the dish are slivers of summer time truffle and a PX syrup from 1947, which gives an fragrant, candy and aged essence, changing the normal wine present in a traditional tiramisu. The endresult is an distinctive mix of flavours and textures, which is basically saying one thing since I’m not usually a giant fan of tiramisu!
Earlier than our remaining course, there was a short interlude – a singular alternative to have interaction our senses. We have been offered with a crimson field full of a number of small bottles containing a secret collection of spirits, encouraging us to discover aromas and flavours we would have in any other case neglected. Figuring out and distinguishing every refined be aware proved to be far harder than you may think!
Our final course, “cardamom croissant / tarte soufflé chocolate / cannelé,” was an beautiful amalgamation of candy treats. We have been offered with three small bites; a cardamom croissant representing a pleasant fusion of French and Swedish pastry traditions, and a singular twist on the traditional croissant with the fragrant heat of cardamom; a light-weight and ethereal chocolate soufflé tart which was splendidly wealthy and decadent; and a canelé, a beloved traditional from Bordeaux.
The chef
Chef Louis Cespedes brings with him a background that features stints on the prestigious Frantzén and Adam & Albin. He’s Frenchman who has honed his abilities in a few of Sweden’s prime kitchens and at Persona, he showcases a menu that highlights daring flavours with creative presentation, reflecting a deep respect for elements and a culinary philosophy is centered round a dedication to creativity and excellence.
Sadly Louis was away on the time of our go to, however it was a pleasure to see his crew at work within the open-plan kitchen that takes centre stage within the restaurant, creating memorable eating experiences that resonate with friends lengthy after they go away.
The atmosphere
Persona’s inside has been designed by Erik Bratsberg, himself impressed by mid-century Italian design, who has created a welcoming but refined eating atmosphere. The usage of calming inexperienced hues and pure wooden not solely present a way of leisure, but additionally someway evoke a reference to nature and Sweden’s altering seasons. It’s an intimate environment with a vigorous buzz of chattering diners and an eclectic combine of latest music, that offers solution to a soothing ambiance that’ feels welcoming and never too stuffy.
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The fee
The tasting menu is priced at 2,100 SEK (roughly $200 at present trade charges).
Wine pairings vary from 1,600 SEK to the ‘Goals’ pairing (wines discovered on the highest of want lists) for 7,500 SEK.
The ultimate verdict
At Persona, we have been handled to a really particular eating expertise. Right here, the menu combined wealthy Nordic traditions with fashionable culinary improvements, balancing glorious presentation with delicate flavours. As our expertise drew to a detailed, we have been requested to smile for the digital camera. We thought nothing of it on the time however, to our delight, we have been offered with a Polaroid as we left— a beautiful memento to mark a really memorable night.
Disclosure: Our go to was sponsored by Persona and our journey was kindly supported by Go to Stockholm.
Paul Johnson
Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxurious Journey Weblog and has labored within the journey business for greater than 30 years. He’s Winner of the Improvements in Journey ‘Finest Journey Influencer’ Award from WIRED journal. Along with different awards, the weblog has additionally been voted “one of many world’s greatest journey blogs” and “greatest for luxurious” by The Telegraph.
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