Climbing the John Muir Path: The Greatest Wilderness Hike in America


Even amongst lengthy trails, the John Muir Path, colloquially referred to as the JMT, is exclusive. It hovers round 8,000 toes for many of its 211 miles, crossing six main mountain passes in California’s Sierra Nevada vary. Whereas it’s named for early twentieth century naturalist John Muir, who based the Sierra Membership, the JMT itself parallels the commerce route as soon as utilized by the indigenous Paiute folks. Immediately, what most captivates folks about this path is the drama of the towering mountains coupled with the remoteness of the terrain, together with a 150-mile stretch and not using a single highway crossing. 

The John Muir Path traverses 211 miles of the Excessive Sierra, together with Yosemite Nationwide Park and Kings Canyon Sequoia Nationwide Parks. Nationwide Geographic

For backpackers, the John Muir Path is seen as a kind of pilgrimage. A lot of the path’s infrastructure dates again to the flip of the 20th century, and the seemingly immutable nature of the granite peaks that make up the Sierra Nevada can provide the impression that you simply’ve stepped absolutely out of the fashionable period. You’re crossing the identical streams of snowmelt, passing the identical ice-cold alpine lakes, traversing the identical notches within the mountain passes as folks did 100 years in the past and even hundreds of years in the past — at instances you’ll really feel as if you’re the one one that has ever been right here. The wilderness is at all times quiet, however generally the silence of the Sierra Nevadas echoes off the cliff faces, swallowing your footsteps till you’re one with the panorama. Even for the non-religious, mountain climbing that prime into the mountains for weeks on finish can grow to be a non secular expertise. 

I hiked the vast majority of the John Muir Path myself in 2014, as a part of my hike of the Pacific Crest Path. Even with 700 miles of thru-hiking already underneath my belt, and a deliberate 20 p.c discount in mileage by means of the Excessive Sierra, I completed each day utterly wiped, throwing down my sleeping bag because the solar turned the vary golden with the final gentle of the day. It’s one of many few sections of path that I dream of repeating — and I would definitely plan to take extra time by means of it. 

Woman looks at view at the top of a JMT trail pass
The John Muir Path is a once-in-a-lifetime hike for a lot of backpackers, and with the precise planning and coaching, you can also make it occur. Adam Tycaster

All this would possibly sound intimidating, however mountain climbing the John Muir Path is eminently doable. It’s a well-signed, superbly maintained path. Not like main hikes just like the Pacific Crest Path or the Appalachian Path, you may get this one accomplished with out quitting your job. However it’s additionally a logistical problem to hike, and also you’ll seemingly must be in one of the best form of your life to finish it. Right here’s what it’s worthwhile to know to get began. 

Step 1: Get Your Allow

The John Muir Path may be very fashionable and, as a result of it is vitally fashionable, the park service strictly limits the variety of folks on it at any given time. You may count on to have your allow checked by rangers a number of instances alongside the JMT, so don’t skip this step. As a result of it’s so aggressive to get a slot on this path, I like to recommend you apply for each a northbound and southbound allow. If you’re so fortunate as to win multiple lottery, you may then select the one that almost all appeals to you.

Hiking toward Mather Pass on the JMT
Strict limits on permits implies that JMT hikers can count on a solitude wilderness expertise, however it does imply that it’s worthwhile to plan forward. Laura Lancaster

The perfect time to hike the John Muir Path is from early July by means of late September. A lot of the snow may have melted out by early July (besides in exceptionally heavy snow years) and received’t begin up once more till October. Whilst you can hike the John Muir Path in June (and lots of PCT hikers do it every year), it tends to be a extra arduous expertise as a result of deep snow overlaying the passes. 

Not like different permitted trails, the JMT allow is an entry allow, so that you aren’t anticipated to know precisely how lengthy you’ll take or the place you’ll camp every night time presently. 

Allow Choice 1: Hike Southbound from Yosemite Valley

These permits are dealt with by lottery by means of the recreation.gov web site for Yosemite Nationwide Park Wilderness Permits: Click on right here to get began. The lottery for every week of the summer time opens up 24 weeks prematurely. So when you needed to hike in mid July, you’d be making use of on the finish of January. (Because of this getting your allow is Step 1.) Here’s a full checklist of the dates

On the web site, click on on the large blue button that claims “Register for Open Lottery.” You’ll be prompted to create a recreation.gov account when you don’t have already got one. After you enter your private data, scroll right down to the blue button that claims “Enter Decisions” and improve the variety of dates you’re making use of for to eight. (Once more, we’re attempting to maximise the chances you get a allow.) Choose “Completely happy Isle -> Previous LYV (Donahue Go Eligible)” and a date for every of the listings. Cough up the $10 and ship up a silent prayer.

Allow Choice 2: Hike Northbound from Whitney Portal

The John Muir Path begins in Yosemite Valley and ends at Whitney Portal, so the second technique to hike the path is north from Whitney Portal. As a result of these permits are additionally utilized by hikers summiting the best peak within the Decrease 48 (Mount Whitney), additionally it is run by a lottery by means of Recreation.gov: Click on right here to get began. The lottery for your complete season’s permits opens on the identical date, February 1. You may submit as much as 10 totally different dates at a time. 

Different Choices

If what you’re in search of is a whole end-to-end hike of the John Muir Path, a southbound hike ranging from Completely happy Isles or a northbound hike ranging from Whitney Portal are your solely choices. If you’re extra versatile, nonetheless, there are dozens of the way to entry massive parts of the John Muir Path from Yosemite Nationwide Park and Kings Canyon Sequoia Nationwide Parks, in addition to Inyo Nationwide Forest and Sierra Nationwide Forest. Take into account what’s most essential to you, a whole thru-hike of the JMT versus a particular yr or timeframe on your hike. If it’s the latter, take a while to familiarize your self with different choices for accessing the path which are much less aggressive. 

Step 2: Begin Coaching

So that you scored your allow. Congratulations! Time to get began in your coaching. 

The extra you prepare earlier than your hike, the higher. Whereas widespread knowledge has it that one of the best ways to coach for a thru-hike is to load up your pack and hit the paths, the truth is that most individuals can’t match that into their frontcountry lives. The perfect they will do is load up their pack and hit the paths on the weekend, which isn’t going to chop it on an journey as lengthy and arduous because the John Muir Path. I like to recommend as an alternative taking a look at your day by day and weekly routines and determining the place you may substitute a visit by automobile for a visit on foot — getting in a variety of 5 to 10 miles a day is a superb objective (extra is best).

Are you able to stroll to the grocery retailer as an alternative of driving? To work? May you permit your automobile at your youngster’s college for drop off and stroll residence? Constant excessive day by day mileage is vital, as it’ll each strengthen your muscular tissues on your thru-hike and acclimate your toes and joints to pounding out the miles, which is able to cut back your odds of a stress-related damage. And sure, by all means, hit the path on the weekend to get some vertical miles in with a completely loaded pack. 

Hiking downhill on the JMT
The one actual technique to prepare for a thru-hike is to go on a thru-hike, however you may assist to acclimate your physique to muscle fatigue and joint stress by growing your day by day mileage proper now. Adam Tycaster

It’s additionally essential that you simply prepare on your thru-hike utilizing the footwear you’ll really be sporting in your thru-hike. That is the primary, and most essential, gear resolution you’ll make earlier than getting began. Discovering a pair of footwear which you could comfortably put on all day — no blisters, no stress accidents, no pointless soreness — is among the most important issues you are able to do to make your hike a hit. Do that now. 

Two women crossing a river
Fast-dry path runners are more and more fashionable on hikes just like the John Muir Path as a result of many unbridged stream crossings.  Richard Lancaster

It’s possible you’ll already know precisely what pair of footwear you wish to use. But when you don’t like your present mountain climbing footwear or path runners and are eager about switching, please learn OL’s story on the finest thru-hiking footwear. Right here, thru-hiker and bodily therapist Morgan Brosnihan shares what she’s realized through the years from treating PCT thru-hikers. Seems, totally different footwear work for various people, and pinpointing the pair that may gel finest along with your explicit ergonomics is the important thing. Take into account this important studying for any aspiring thru-hiker. 

Step 3: Get Your Gear Collectively

Whereas not required, a number of folks use a possibility like a thru-hike of the JMT to rethink their backpacking equipment. Like with any arduous lengthy path, a lighter backpack is mostly extra fulfilling to hold than a heavier backpack. Nonetheless, it’s worthwhile to be snug and skilled with the gear you’re carrying, so don’t decide to a single-trekking pole tent when you aren’t certain you’ll wish to set it up in heavy winds. 

Learn Subsequent: Backpacking Guidelines 

The Large Three

The largest weight financial savings you can also make in your equipment is with the Large Three: your backpack, sleeping system (sleeping bag or quilt and sleeping pad), and your tent. Out of doors Life has accomplished in depth assessments on merchandise on this class, with an emphasis on what ultralight gear works properly for these which are new to ultralight gear. I’d encourage you to start out along with your tent, as you may simply shave a few kilos off your equipment by switching to a best-in-class ultralight mannequin. 

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Ultralight Tents

You’ll wish to have a look at your sleep system fastidiously as properly, since in a single day temps can drop significantly on the JMT, particularly within the valleys. Be ready for temps as chilly as freezing (colder when you plan on mountain climbing close to the tip of September). If it’s worthwhile to improve your sleep system to account for these decrease temps, think about upgrading to a quilt and insulated sleeping pad mixture, which is a extra environment friendly technique to maximize heat to weight. 

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Backpacking Quilts

Whilst you can doubtlessly reduce a major quantity of weight by switching to top-of-the-line ultralight backpacks, it’s finest to solely do that when you plan to get your general base weight under 20 kilos. Most ultralight backpacks are usually uncomfortable when full of masses in extra of 35 kilos, and also you’re going to have just a few substantial meals carries on this hike. 

JMT Necessities

There are just a few gadgets that you simply’ll must carry in your JMT hike that won’t already be in your backpacking equipment:

  • Bear Canister: Whereas OL has examined the finest bear canisters, what’s essential for you is the checklist of bear canisters that the land companies have accredited for the JMT. From this checklist of accredited canisters, I like to recommend you go along with both the BearVault or the Bearikade, relying on the dimensions you assume you want. The bears of Yosemite are very artful with regards to snatching thru-hikers meals, so don’t skimp on this required step. 
  • Map: Whilst you can obtain some glorious apps with mapping and path notes (FarOut is mostly essentially the most used possibility for this goal), in distant stretches of wilderness just like the JMT, having a bodily map is a should. I like to recommend the Nationwide Geographic model. 
  • Satellite tv for pc Messenger: That is distant wilderness. You’ll not have cellphone reception. Bringing a satellite tv for pc messenger can present anxious family members again residence with peace of thoughts, and provide the instruments it’s worthwhile to attain out to native SAR for assist in the occasion of calamity.

Learn Subsequent: Greatest Private Locator Beacons and Satellite tv for pc Messengers

  • Microspikes or Ice Cleats: If there’s nonetheless snow on the passes, you’ll wish to carry a pair of light-weight microspikes or ice cleats. In tandem along with your trekking poles, these will improve your traction and stability, permitting you to hike sooner and extra safely. Within the runup to your begin date, examine your FarOut app and group boards on Fb and Reddit to get a way of what sort of snow you’ll seemingly be encountering. If there’s nonetheless deep snow alongside the mountain passes (there was once I hiked it), do not forget that it’s usually simpler to journey throughout snow within the early morning, when the snow remains to be agency. Later within the day you’ll be extra in danger for postholing (punching by means of the snow with every step), which may be very tiring and can gradual your progress. 

Learn Subsequent: Greatest Microspikes or Ice Cleats

  • Bug Spray: On the peak of summer time, when the bottom remains to be damp from melted snow, the mosquitoes might be an absolute nightmare. The worst mosquitoes I’ve ever skilled have been in Yosemite Nationwide Park — a whole bunch of them plastered the mesh of our tent in any respect hours, simply ready for us to emerge. As a result of it’s tough to foretell precisely when the worst of the skeeters will happen, you will wish to come absolutely ready. I like to recommend spraying down all of your clothes in permethrin earlier than you permit, and carrying each a head internet and the best share DEET you may stand. Notice: In the event you use DEET in your pores and skin, you shouldn’t try to clean your self off in any of the pristine mountain lakes you encounter. Attempt spraying it in your clothes as an alternative. 
Woman standing in a lake in the High Sierra
Taking a dip in one of many Sierra Nevada’s many mountain lakes is an effective way to beat the warmth, however attempt to keep away from including bug spray or sunscreen to those delicate ecosystems.  Adam Tycaster

Learn Subsequent: The Greatest Mosquito Repellents

  • Excessive SPF sunscreen. The JMT may be very excessive — usually properly above 10,000 toes — and most of it is vitally uncovered. Even for people who’re already tan or who’ve extra melatonin naturally, sunburning might be a problem (my nostril peeled for weeks after mountain climbing the JMT). I like to recommend upping your present go-to SPF by about 20 and bringing alongside a small tube to use to extra delicate areas like your nostril and the tops of your ears at a minimal. If you already know you’re liable to burning even at decrease elevations then you need to plan to reapply each few hours. 
Near the top of Forrester Pass
Close to the highest of 13,153-foot Forrester Go, one of many highest factors alongside the John Muir Path.  Laura Lancaster

For nearly all aspiring JMT hikers, the elevation may even be a major hurdle. If you already know that you simply battle with altitude illness at elevation, think about talking along with your physician about whether or not or not you’re a candidate for drugs that may assist to alleviate this, similar to Diamox. Everybody ought to familiarize themselves with the signs of altitude illness and know what to do within the occasion they begin to really feel light-headed. 

What To not Deliver

One of many best methods to lighten your load in your thru-hike of the John Muir Path is by eliminating the entire non-essentials out of your pack. Quite a few these can be straightforward to determine: hammock, tenting chair, mirror, flask. However there are different gadgets that may add up too when you aren’t cautious. A full tube of toothpaste, when a miniature model would do positive. A plate and a bowl on your meals. A miniature lantern on your tent along with a flashlight. A number of months earlier than your hike, experiment with eradicating all the things out of your pack that isn’t important to your well being and security: clothes stuff sacks, hairbrush, french press plunger. See the way it feels to put on your now much-lighter pack out in your subsequent coaching hike. Now you may add again within the gear that you simply nonetheless assume you’ll need. 

Step 4: Logistics and Resupply Packing containers

When you’ve been coaching for some time, knocking off 10 miles in just a few hours in your thru-hiking footwear, you could begin to really feel slightly formidable. Perhaps you’ll have the ability to hike extra miles a day than you assume. 

That is improper. The John Muir Path may be very bodily demanding, particularly if there’s any lingering snow. No matter your objective day by day mileage is, plan to knock it again by about 25 p.c. Most individuals will want about three weeks. In the event you’re very bodily match, you would possibly have the ability to get it accomplished in two. However you received’t remorse having extra time and feeling much less rushed in your hike. 

Mountain reflection in lake on the JMT
Climbing 211 miles in two weeks whereas nonetheless taking the time to soak in views like it is a robust needle to string. Richard Lancaster

Whilst you can, and a few folks do, plan out the place they will spend each night time on path, most individuals discover that it’s simpler to estimate the variety of miles they’re snug mountain climbing in a day, and plan their provides and meals based mostly on that. The JMT has loads of lovely campsites which are clearly marked, so that you’ll usually have the ability to discover camp for the night time with out too many difficulties. The most well-liked choices can be marked on the paper map you’re carrying, however the FarOut app may have notes on the precise location of each patch of filth that would conceivably match a one-person tent. Like all trails, there can be climate (such because the potential for afternoon lightning storms on the peak of summer time) and terrain situations (similar to lingering snowfields and excessive rivers) that may even have an effect on how shortly you’ll be able to hike. 

A notice on the elevation profile. Whereas the path may be very excessive, particularly when you’re coming from sea degree, the best elevations are within the southern portion of the path. Due to that, most individuals will want to start out in Yosemite Valley (round 4,000 toes), and make their approach as much as Cathedral Go (10,000 toes) over the primary couple of days. In the event you begin at Whitney Portal (8,000 toes), you’ll climb up 5,000 toes in the course of the first couple of days (larger when you plan to take the 2-mile detour to the highest of Mount Whitney). Your physique can and can regulate to the elevation so long as you’re taking it gradual, however count on to really feel sluggish when you’re adjusting to the low oxygen situations. Your first 4 or 5 days on path might be very gradual, so account for that in your anticipated mileage. 

Resupply Packing containers

Three weeks is a very long time to be within the wilderness, and also you received’t have the ability to carry all of the meals you want for your complete stretch in a single go. As an alternative, you’ll must plan to “resupply” — selecting up further provides alongside the way in which. However, it’s unlawful to cache meals immediately on path. Under you’ll discover resupply choices with related mileage for southbound hikers. Take into account what number of days of meals you’re snug carrying at a time, and plan to ship resupply bins (or buckets, relying) accordingly.  

Mile 24: Tuolumne Meadows

As you cross by means of Tuolumne Meadows en path to Donahue Go, you’ll be inside spitting distance of the Tuolumne Meadows Normal Retailer and the Tuolumne Meadows Submit Workplace, conveniently positioned in the identical constructing. You may both ship a resupply field to them with the meals you’ll wish to carry for the following part, or buy what you wish to carry with you. I like to recommend planning on a mixture of each, as the choice on the Normal Retailer, whereas catering to hikers and thru-hikers is considerably restricted and costly.

The one catch right here is that they’re solely open three months of the yr, so you should definitely double examine that the put up workplace is open earlier than sending your field. I like to recommend calling Yosemite Nationwide Park and confirming with a park ranger there each the opening date of the shop and the put up workplace in addition to the precise tackle to make use of. 

Mile 57: Pink’s Meadows

Privately owned resort Pink’s Meadows is only a quarter mile off path, making it one other apparent spot to cease alongside the John Muir Path. Comply with the instructions on their web site when sending a resupply field. 

Mile 90: Vermilion Valley Resort

Vermilion Valley Resort, usually shortened to VVR, is one other privately owned resort that caters to thru-hikers. Whereas they do promote some resupply items out of their basic retailer, the choices are considerably restricted. Comply with the instructions on their web site when sending a resupply field. VVR is just a few miles off path, though throughout excessive water years they’re generally in a position to run a ferry throughout Edison Lake. Though slightly more durable to entry than different resupply choices, getting a beer, a scorching meal, and a bathe at VVR is a superb refresh for the spirits earlier than coming into the hardest portion of the path. 

Mile 112: Muir Path Ranch

One other resort that may maintain packages for thru-hikers; nonetheless, this one is nearer to the path than VVR is. Notice that there’s restricted to no further providers for hikers. Comply with their instructions when spending a package deal. 

Mile 178: Kearsarge Go

Most hikers might want to resupply between Muir Path Ranch and Whitney Portal, and one of the best ways to do that is by leaving the path and mountain climbing 6.5 miles over Kearsarge Go and right down to the Onion Valley Trailhead. There are not any providers on the trailhead, so except you could have somebody assembly you there, you’ll must hitchhike right down to Independence (which has a put up workplace however few different providers) or additional alongside to Bishop, which has most facilities that hikers will need, together with accommodations, gear outlets, and grocery shops. Hitchhiking can sound intimidating when you’ve by no means accomplished it earlier than, however the locals who frequent the Onion Valley Trailhead are sometimes fairly beneficiant about selecting up and dropping off hikers. In my expertise, you may count on it to take about an hour every approach. 

Sunrise on the JMT
A morning dawn close to Emerald Lake alongside the John Muir Path. Laura Lancaster

Ultimate Ideas

The John Muir Path is among the hardest lengthy trails within the nation. It’s also some of the lovely. In the event you’ve been eager about making an attempt a thru-hike, this path is a very achievable objective, and certain to carry recollections that you’ll cherish for years to come back. However be warned: Many individuals who hike the John Muir Path are impressed to try even longer trails, just like the Pacific Crest Path or Continental Divide Path. 

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