A sluggish tour of the area’s traditional roadway turns into an action-packed Appalachian highway journey
We began in early August. On a mountain highway journey that some vacationers knock out in an extended weekend, our plan was to do the alternative. We might spend a leisurely 16 days cruising the Blue Ridge Parkway from north to south. I made reservations at six public campgrounds, every a two- to four-hour drive from each other. We had climbing sneakers within the truck, kayaks and mountain bikes on the roof, and our new journey trailer hitched up behind.
For 469 miles, the parkway follows the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, connecting Shenandoah Nationwide Park in Virginia and Nice Smoky Mountains Nationwide Park in North Carolina. Averaging over 15 million annual guests, the parkway is the most well-liked unit of the Nationwide Park Service. Most individuals go for driving excursions, mountain lodges, scenic overlooks, wine tastings, and a crowded fall colours season. Not precisely our scene, actually, given we often journey for extra adventurous actions.
For years, we by no means thought-about the parkway a vacation spot itself. Every now and then, we would drive a brief part on the way in which to different adventures. However the parkway does move via a few of the most scenic and rugged elements of the Appalachian Mountains. A better have a look at the encircling terrain revealed intriguing choices, together with climbing, paddling, mountain biking, and different facet excursions. As soon as we had our camper, a brand new kind of highway journey appeared potential: progress slowly, arrange basecamps, and attempt to beat the crowds by venturing outward.
James River, Appomattox, and Lynchburg, Va.
On day one, we drove south from Skyline Drive and continued onto the Blue Ridge Parkway. To succeed in the distant Milepost 0, we’d spent the prior week working north, with two basecamps, one to discover the Richmond space and one other for lengthy hikes in Shenandoah Nationwide Park. Thus, once we reached Humpback Rocks (Milepost 6), we determined to skip the steep path to the ridgetop formation. As a substitute, we wandered an interpretive Eighteen Nineties homestead earlier than persevering with south.
Regardless of it being a Saturday with delicate climate, the northern roadway felt quiet and peaceable—far totally different than the southernmost sections we have been conversant in. Alongside its size, the parkway doesn’t instantly intersect with different highways however makes use of interchanges. Industrial automobiles aren’t allowed, and the velocity restrict is often 45 mph or much less. Not everybody follows these guidelines, however up right here, at the least, drivers largely have been.
Our first basecamp was Otter Creek Campground (Milepost 60.8) for 3 nights. This space doesn’t see a lot visitation, and the services appeared virtually as previous because the parkway itself, which was constructed over a 50-year interval starting within the Thirties. The close by bridge over the James River (Milepost 63) is the parkway’s lowest elevation at 649 ft, and the hotter climate was excellent for some paddling.
The subsequent day, I pushed off in my kayak close to the city of Glasgow. I’d heard concerning the Balcony Falls run for years. With 5 miles of sophistication II+ via the forested James River Gorge, this can be a whitewater traditional amongst Virginia paddlers and newcomers. We didn’t have our ducky, which my spouse prefers for rapids, so I used to be probing solo. However a low summer season stream round 750 CFS felt manageable, and I used to be quickly welcomed by a neighborhood group.
The lone class III speedy is Balcony Falls, the place the gorge narrows. All of us got here via with clear strains and continued downstream via enjoyable boulder gardens. When a darkish storm rolled in, we lowered our heads and paddled via driving rain. My spouse was ready on the truck, and the afternoon climate despatched us west for drinks and dinner on the glorious Outpost Taproom of Devils Spine Brewing Co. in Lexington.
On day three, we stopped by the Otter Creek Customer Heart to see a preserved part of the historic Kanawha Canal. There we met Justin, a tour bicycle owner who was driving the whole parkway on his means from Washington D.C. to his small farm in rural Georgia. We wished him luck earlier than heading out on a facet journey.
The customer heart reveals at Appomattox Court docket Home Nationwide Historic Park have been fascinating, however one of the best half was strolling via the restored nineteenth century townsite. Afterward, we explored downtown Lynchburg for a historical past stroll and pub crawl. Highlights included a sweaty stair climb to the Lynchburg Museum within the Previous Court docket Home, adopted by air-conditioned stops at Three Roads Brewing and Starr Hill on Fundamental. Our James River basecamp was a winner, and we’ll be passing this fashion once more sometime.
Roanoke, Va., and Discover Park
On day 4, we drove two hours south to Roanoke. We had excessive hopes for tenting three nights on the county operated Discover Park (Milepost 115), which touts its 1,100 wooded acres as an journey vacation spot. The disc golf course was good enjoyable, and the quiet park’s onsite brewpub made for a pleasant night with enjoyable folks at a historic 1800s tavern. However the park’s RV campsites have been oddly cramped, and the mountain bike trails felt like driving on staircases fabricated from roots. With a number of child-focused zones, together with the animatronic T-Rex Path, the park appears better-suited for day-tripping households or these staying in rental cabins.
We had a pleasant time exploring the pleasant mountain metro. We walked round Mill Mountain Park, dwelling of the enduring hilltop star. We checked out the great Transportation Museum. We wandered across the quaint downtown to strong breweries and eating places, together with the Olde Salem Brewing Co. and Nawab Indian Delicacies.
On day 5, we hoped to mountain bike the realm’s prime path system at Carvins Cove, however heavy rain had different concepts. My spouse opted for an inside day. I placed on my splash prime and paddled the Roanoke River Gorge, a three-mile class II run alongside the northern boundary of Discover Park. The standard put-in requires a steep quarter-mile hike from the parkway to river stage. Apart from the channelized speedy of Little Niagara, the run was fairly scrapey at summer season ranges and sure higher within the spring.
One spotlight was a day side-trip to close by Booker T. Washington Nationwide Monument, which preserves the plantation the place the African American chief was born enslaved and departed from after the Civil Struggle. Outdoors the superb customer heart, strolling paths lead via restored buildings and an indication farm. It was a quiet day at this little-visited monument, and we frolicked with the ranger whereas she fed the animals.
Doughton Park and New River State Park
Day seven concerned an extended drive with transient stops, together with a brief stroll at Rocky Knob (Milepost 167), a self-guided tour of the historic Mabry Mill (Milepost 176), and a pleasant museum on the Blue Ridge Music Heart (Milepost 213). To date, we’d discovered the 217 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia to be surprisingly quiet, aside from a busier part via Roanoke.
As soon as we crossed into North Carolina, visitors elevated, and impatient drivers started tailgating. Attributable to building closures on the parkway, we detoured via busier cities. On one hectic stretch of freeway, we handed Justin. He was standing on the shoulder, subsequent to his tour bike, trying a little bit drained. Unable to cease, I honked and waved hiya.
Happily, after backtracking on the parkway, we discovered Doughton Park (Milepost 238) to be a picturesque panorama of rolling meadows and forests. We arrange for 3 nights in a pleasant campground full of regulars who walked laps collectively across the loop every night time. Throughout our keep, we realized that Doughton Park was a lot quieter than regular given the parkway closure simply to the north. Day eight was spent climbing 10 miles via the breezy park, which gives delicate summer season temps resulting from an elevation round 4,000 ft. We handed fields of wildflowers, loved open vistas, and stepped contained in the restored Brinegar Cabin.
On day 9, we side-tripped to New River State Park for a heat Sunday float journey. The five-mile run from Gentry Highway to the U.S. 221 entry was nice, with traditional Appalachian surroundings, only a handful of fellow floaters, and regular present.
Linville Falls and the Black Mountains
On day 10, we caught up with Justin proper after the well-known Lin Cove Viaduct (Milepost 304). He described a harrowing journey on the current detour. We have been like previous friends now, laughing concerning the easy days on the mellower parkway in Virginia. All of us camped at Linville Falls (Milepost 316) for one night time, the place we hiked the quick trails collectively to waterfall overlooks, whereas sharing tales of previous adventures. For dinner, we devoured a Dutch oven meal of baked pesto. The final time we noticed our new pal was on day 11, outdoors the Museum of NC Minerals (Milepost 331) the place a small crowd had gathered to listen to his tales. Hopefully, we’ll cross paths once more sometime.
From there, my spouse and I diverted off the parkway to the favored Black Mountain Campground for 3 nights. On day twelve, we drove the switchbacks as much as Mount Mitchell State Park to see the best summit on the East Coast at 6,684 ft. A cold however worthy hike took us via dense fog, slick rocks, and scraggly spruce-fir forest alongside the rugged backbone of the Black Mountains.
Pisgah Nationwide Forest and Brevard, N.C.
On day 13, we resumed towing our camper alongside the parkway. We made a climbing cease at busy Craggy Gardens (Milepost 364.6) and dropped into the Folks Artwork Heart gallery (Milepost 382). Then we zipped via Asheville. We have been in acquainted territory once more, having pushed the parkway a number of occasions round Pisgah Nationwide Forest.
Our typical cease is the plush Davidson River Campground on US-267, which makes for an amazing off-parkway basecamp close to Brevard. Nonetheless, if that’s full, a ridgetop possibility is Mt. Pisgah Campground (Milepost 408). Highlights round listed here are too quite a few to say, however we regularly mountain bike at Dupont State Forest, which mixes enjoyable single-track with gravel routes resulting in cascading waterfalls. At night time, we would head downtown to Brevard Brewing Co. and stroll to dinner close by, together with the informal Mayberry’s. Or, close to the sting of city, one other prime brewpub with out of doors beer backyard is Noblebrau.
Nearer to the parkway, we’ve walked the nice paths on the Cradle of Forestry, which wind via the woods of a historic forestry camp that’s now an outdoor-indoor museum. In the meantime, there are a number of day-hiking choices on the parkway south of US-276. The paths at Graveyard Fields (Milepost 418.8) are average, winding via a rugged creek valley with a number of waterfalls. Or flip west onto Black Balsam Highway (Milepost 420.2) and hike the steep Artwork Loeb Path to Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain for panoramic views of the encircling highlands.
On a previous journey, on the southern finish of the parkway we continued east into Nice Smoky Mountains Nationwide Park for extra adventures. This time, we turned south towards a ultimate basecamp close to the Nantahala River for a weekend of paddling and mountain biking with pals. Alongside the way in which, we made a final cease at Richland Balsam Overlook (Milepost 431). At 6,053 ft, it’s the best level on the parkway. Regardless of going slowly, our 16-day highway journey felt like a whirlwind.
Cowl picture: All photographs by Mike Bezemek
