A Fast & Soiled Information to Italy’s Alta By way of 1

Situated in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are one in all Europe’s most dramatic mountain ranges. A mix of serrated limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, shimmering alpine lakes and deep, slender valleys, they’ve lengthy been a magnet for geologists, travellers and out of doors fans alike. From a hiker’s perspective, this legendary sub-range of the Alps boasts an intensive system of pathways (i.e. “Vias”), and of the various trails that crisscross its rugged topography, probably the most well-known of all of them is the Alta By way of 1 (AV1).

I hiked the AV1 together with the Alta By way of 2 over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. Click on right here for a full rundown of the latter hike. Please word that the knowledge beneath is basically directed in direction of unbiased hikers, slightly than of us going as a part of organised trekking teams. 

Ascending in direction of the Forcella de Zita Sud on Stage 10 of the Alta By way of 1.

At a Look

Distance (11 Levels):  120 km (75 mi)

Length (common):  8 to 10 days 

Issue Stage:  Average

Begin / End:

• Lago di Braies
• La Pissa Bus Cease (Val Cordevole)

Lago di Braies – Northern terminus of the Alta By way of 1

Lago di Braies – the rowboat capital of the Dolomites.

Which Path?: I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction, although the vast majority of individuals appear to hike north to south; which is the way in which the route is described within the Cicerone guidebook listed beneath.

Elevation Achieve: 6,665 m (21,833ft) approx.

Highest Level: Rifugio Lagazuoi – 2,752m (9,029ft)

Lowest Level:  La Pissa – 448m (1,470ft)

Alta By way of 1 Overview Map (Trekking within the Dolomites, Cicerone Guides)

Getting There & Away

• Lago di Braeis is serviced by common Dolomiti buses to and from the villages of Villabassa and Dobbiaco. They go away hourly throughout the summer season months and take between 20 to half-hour to achieve the lake. See the Dolomiti web site for the present schedule. Each Villabassa and Dobbiaco are accessible by practice.

• La Pissa Bus Cease (Val Cordevole) is 20 minutes from the city of Belluno. For present timetables see the Dolomiti web site. Word that timetables are additionally displayed within the final couple of refuges on the path. From Belluno, onward bus and practice providers can be found.

Southern terminus of the Alta By way of 1 within the Val Cordevole.

Season

• Mid-June to late September. In a mean climate yr, September is good. The varsity vacation crowds are gone, the summer season thunderstorms (usually brief) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are much less crowded (Tip: Throughout July and August storms most frequently happen throughout the afternoon. If attainable, attempt to make early begins and get the lion’s share of your mountain climbing accomplished within the morning hours).

• Relying on the snow ranges and expertise of the aspirant, the AV1 may also be accomplished within the late spring or early to mid fall. When mountain climbing at these instances, chances are you’ll require an ice axe and traction gadgets. Additionally word that the majority, if not the entire huts might be closed, so you have to to hold your entire personal meals and a tent/tarp.

Yours really approaching the Forcella del Lago (2,486 m) on Stage 3 of the Alta By way of 1.

Planning Info 

• Guidebook:  Gillian Worth, Trekking within the Dolomites (Cicerone Guides) | Kindle model accessible | The ebook consists of logistical beta, trekking notes, elevation profiles, fundamental maps (not detailed sufficient for navigation), city info, and time and distance estimates for every of the AV1’s 11 phases.

• Maps: 1. Tabacco produces probably the most detailed mountain climbing maps for the Dolomites. Three 1:25,000 topo maps cowl the complete AV1 (i.e. Sheets – 031, 03 and 025, ). Additionally accessible on-line from Amazon and Omnimap.com. Word that it’s attainable to choose them up when you arrive, however there are not any ensures all three sheets might be accessible;  2. Alternatively, Kompass produces a 1:50,000 ‘Wanderkarte’ sequence that covers the route (3 maps complete – Sheets 57,55 and 77).

Stage 5 between Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume passes via a stunning excessive altitude pasture which was as soon as the area of Mesolithic hunters.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike the AV1.

• Language:  German and Italian. A fundamental information of both undoubtedly turns out to be useful, nevertheless, nearly the entire locals you’ll encounter alongside the route know a minimum of a bit English.

• Cell/Cell Cellphone Protection: I are inclined to maintain my telephone in flight mode 99% of the time whereas I hike, however from what I can inform service within the Dolomites is spotty as soon as you allow the villages/cities. That stated, on the AV1 a lot of the huts now provide Wifi for visitors, and it’s often attainable to cost your telephone and/or battery pack whether or not you’re overnighting, or simply stopping in for breakfast or lunch.

Skirting beneath the Cime de la Scala on the ultimate stage of the AV1.

• Money or Card:  Most of the huts (although not all) alongside the AV1 settle for bank cards. You should definitely convey sufficient money simply in case you’re staying in a single or two that don’t.

• AV1 Planning Abstract: I’d advocate the next course: 1. Learn via this text; 2. Buy the informative Cicerone information; 3. Obtain a GPX file (see above) to your telephone (I take advantage of the Gaia GPS app), and; 4. Choose up the Tabacco maps.

Resupply & Water

• Resupply:  You gained’t go hungry on the AV1. Procuring meals alongside the way in which is straightforward if you’re mountain climbing throughout the summer season season. Merely eat your most important meals on the regularly-spaced Rifugi (mountain huts), at which you may also buy snacks and sandwiches to go. Word that if you’re all in favour of mountain climbing out of season, you both have to hold all your individual meals from begin to end, or undertake some detours off-route alongside the way in which.

Refugio Biella on the finish of Stage 1.

• Water:  Not like in lots of different elements of the Alps, H20 is comparatively scarce within the higher areas of the Dolomites. In keeping with Gillian Worth within the Cicerone Information, that is as a result of “dolomite-limestone rock (most floor water disappears underground) in addition to the dearth of glaciers and everlasting snow fields.” In sensible phrases, because of this hikers ought to all the time pay attention to the place their subsequent probability to replenish might be earlier than setting out on every stage. Word that bottled water is all the time accessible for buy within the huts – usually at very costly costs (e.g. €3 for a 1.5 lt bottle – September, 2019).

Route / Situations

• Overview:  Though fairly demanding in sections – there’s a complete of 6665 m (21,833 ft) elevation achieve all through its course – the AV1 is effectively marked and maintained, and inside the capabilities of most hikers. A superb multi-day possibility for first-time alpine hikers. Not like the area’s well-known By way of Ferratas (i.e. “Iron Roads” – protected climbing paths with cables, ladders and iron rungs which can be hooked up to rock partitions), the AV1 doesn’t embody any technical sections that require specialised gear. That being stated, for these wishing to expertise the famed iron roads, it does move by a few of these spectacular alternates; notably the Ferrata Marmol on Stage 11.

• Historical past: The By way of Ferrata are far more than an exhilarating approach to expertise the Dolomites breathtaking landscapes. In addition they characterize a visible reminder of the world’s bloody historical past. Throughout WW1, the Dolomites had been the scene of fierce battles between the Italian and Austro Hungarian forces. The By way of Ferrata had been put in throughout these years as a method of enabling troops faster entry to the entrance line. The Alta By way of 1 additionally weaves via fascinating open air conflict museums at Mount Lagazuoi (the Alta By way of 1’s highest level) and Cinque Torri (5 Towers). At these scenic places, hikers can witness first hand the intensive system of tunnels and trenches that had been constructed between 1915 and 1917. The juxtaposition between somber historical past and spectacular pure magnificence is putting.

The start of the Stage 4 alternate by way of the steep tunnel (see beneath for particulars) slightly below Rifugio Lagazuoi

Throughout World Struggle 1 troops on each side excavated a system of tunnels across the Piccolo Lagazuoi for the aim of laying explosives to mine enemy positions. Essentially the most notable of those tunnels is the Galleria Lagazuoi, which descends for 1100 m at a forty five° gradient for a complete elevation drop of 230 m  (Word: Don’t overlook your headlamp).

• Navigation:  The path is effectively marked from begin to end. The route is marked with crimson and whites paint splashes and cairns.

• How Lengthy will it take?: Within the opening “At a Look” part I point out that the common AV1 hiker will take between 8 and 10 days. That stated, the period of time it takes to complete the AV1 can fluctuate vastly relying on quite a lot of elements. Match and skilled hikers carrying a light-weight pack, can comfortably do the AV1 in 4 or 5 days.

• Favorite Sections: My favorite phases on the AV1 had been as follows:

• • Stage 4 Variant – Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Nuvolau. Except you’ve got extreme claustrophobia or dodgy knees, remember to take the variant by way of the wartime tunnels right down to Passo Falzarego.
  • Stage 5 – Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume – Excessive altitude pasture with beautiful rock formations.
  • Stage 10 – Rifugio Pramperet to Rifugio Pian de Fontana. Arguably the most effective views of the entire path on both aspect of the Forcella de Zita Sud.

Approaching the Forcella de Zita Sud (2,395 m / 7,858 ft)

Sleeping

Choices on the AV1 embody staffed mountain huts and wild tenting:

• Mountain Huts: Nearly all of backpackers within the Dolomites keep within the rifugi (mountain huts). These staffed refuges might be discovered all through the vary, and sometimes boast unimaginable excessive altitude places, together with spectacular vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and together with in a single day lodging (dormitory and typically non-public rooms), additionally they provide breakfast, lunch and dinner. One of the best worth can often be discovered within the half-board provide (mezza pensione), which consists of a 3 course dinner, a mattress, and breakfast. As of 2019, half-board prices round 45 to 55 Euros. Word that members of the Membership Alpino Italiano often pay round 20% lower than non-members, and people which can be affiliated with sure different European Alpine or Mountain golf equipment (e.g. UK, Austria, German, French), take pleasure in reciprocal rights. Through the peak season months of July and August, lodging ought to ideally be booked prematurely (particularly if you’re mountain climbing in a bunch).

The fantastically located Rifugio Pramperet marks the tip of Stage 9.

• Wild Tenting: Common readers of ‘The Mountaineering Life’ knew this bit was coming. Whereas I loved consuming breakfasts and lunches within the huts throughout my time on the AV1, I prevented in a single day stays within the huts. The primary causes for that is had been that: A. I don’t sleep effectively in dormitories, and; B. If I’m mountain climbing within the mountains I want to sleep outdoors every time attainable. That being the case, I did what I nearly all the time do – arrange camp at sundown and left the next morning earlier than dawn.

• Is Wild Tenting Authorized within the Dolomites?:  Formally talking, “tenting” – which is outwardly outlined in Italy as staying in the identical tent website for greater than 48 hours – is strictly prohibited. Alternatively, the “in a single day bivouac” – organising late and leaving early the next morning is allowed (or a minimum of tolerated) so long as you apply LNT ideas. See the next article on the hikedolomites.com web site for a extra detailed breakdown.

• Virtually talking, I discovered wild tenting within the Dolomites to be just like different Alpine areas I’ve hiked via over time – that’s, so long as you arrange late in a stealthy spot, go away at daybreak the subsequent day, and apply LNT ideas always, there are not any points. Throughout my journey I met a handful of different campers who like myself encountered no issues following this technique.

Consuming within the alpenglow from a wild camp on the Alta By way of 1.

Closing Ideas on the AV1

1.  Alta By way of 1 Vs Alta By way of 2 – I hiked these two lovely trails back-to-back over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. I used to be very lucky with the climate, encountering solely in the future of rain throughout each hikes. A number of factors to notice:

• The Alta By way of 1 is simpler and extra regularly trafficked than the AV2, being notably standard with organised trekking teams. One thing to remember if you’re making hut reservations prematurely.

• Not like the Alta By way of 2, there are not any By way of Ferrata sections on the usual AV1. This truth, together with is mostly gentler elevation profile and simpler terrain, makes it the choice of selection for people which can be comparatively new to multi-day mountain climbing journeys.

• Which is extra scenically spectacular – the AV1 or AV2?: That’s a tricky one. It is vitally shut, but when I had to decide on I’d in all probability go together with the AV2. Alternatively, I’d give the AV1 the benefit on the historical past entrance, and possibly a slight edge with reference to culinary choices as effectively.

I by no means really weighed myself, however I believe I could have placed on a kilo or two throughout my time within the Dolomites (lunch at Rifugio Coldai).

2.  Enrosadira – The rock pinnacles and spires of the Dolomites are notably spectacular at dawn and sundown, because the pale dolostone peaks mild up with a salmon-coloured glow. The Italians consult with this phenomena as “enrosadira” (alpenglow).

3.  Base for the Dolomites:  Throughout my time within the Dolomite area, I primarily based myself within the city of Brunico (Bolzano), which not solely offered easy accessibility to each the AV1 and AV2, but in addition to the third multi-day hike I did within the space, the Pfunderer Hohenweg (journey report nonetheless to come back).

4.  Carry a light-weight pack –  There are a variety of causes to lighten your pack load, nevertheless the large ones are merely consolation, well being and delight. It’s higher for each your physique, which is much less more likely to incur stress-related accidents, and likewise your thoughts, which is more likely to be much less distracted than it could be underneath the burden of a heavy load (see the Gear and Ultralight dropdown menus for suggestions). Due to the frequently located full-service huts on the AV1, hikers by no means have to hold various snacks, and for these staying solely in huts, your pack might be even lighter nonetheless as there isn’t any have to pack a shelter or perhaps a sleeping bag/quilt. For a rundown of the gear I carried on the AV1, see the accompanying submit: Gear Listing: Alta By way of 1 and a couple of (Dolomites, Italy).

5.  Timing Your Days:  As is the case just about everywhere in the Alps, a lot of the hikers you’ll encounter appear to start their mountain climbing day round 8 – 9 am, and end someday between 2 and 4 pm, after they arrive at their pre-reserved hut. Because of this the paths are sometimes hiker-free throughout what I think about to be the most effective instances of the day (i.e. early morning and late afternoon). From my perspective, herein lies the best good thing about carrying your individual shelter –  freedom. The liberty to come up at daybreak when the birds are singing, and stroll in solitude underneath an infinite ceiling of rising blue. The identical applies to sundown, when the temps are cooler, wildlife reemerging and the sky is popping fifty shades of crimson. These are the instances once I most need to be out on the path. Not essentially to cowl extra miles, however as an alternative as a result of it makes me really feel like I’m extra part of the each day miracle that’s unfolding throughout me.

6.  My AV1 Technique: FWIW, right here’s a tough breakdown of my each day schedule throughout my 3.5 days on the AV1:

• Begin my mountain climbing day at daybreak.

• Normally, I’d be camped 30 min to an hour from the subsequent hut, which I’d goal at reaching by 730/8 am on the newest for a morning meal.

• Breakfasts – On the whole, brekky on the huts was a combined bag. The great ones included a buffet of cereals, bread, cheeses, meats, a number of cups of espresso, and value round €9 or €10. The not-so-great ones had been of the continental selection consisting of bread, butter, jam, a espresso, and that’s about it. These value €7 or €8 and I invariably left hungry………probably not, as in these circumstances I’d purchase one thing additional to go.

• Lunches – Upon leaving after breakfast I knew roughly how lengthy it could take me to get to the subsequent hut, the place I’d cease for a noon/mid-afternoon meal. So long as I obtained there by 2 to 230 pm, I all the time knew they’d nonetheless be serving. Lunches on the Rifugi had been typically dear, however all the time good, with sizzling meals setting you again anyplace between €10 and €16. I often added a dessert and a few beers, after which I waddled out €20 to €30 lighter in pocket (however content material of abdomen).

• Dinner –  I’d usually go away my lunch cease with one or two sandwiches (and an overpriced chocolate bar) to tide me over for the remainder of the day. Taking a look at my maps, I’d have in my thoughts the areas the place I may almost definitely discover a good tenting spot, at which level I’d usually arrive round sundown. The subsequent day I’d get up and do it yet again………..

Stage 10 – Closing sundown of the AV1.

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