Positioned in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are one in all Europe’s most dramatic mountain ranges. A mix of serrated limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, shimmering alpine lakes and deep, slim valleys, they’ve lengthy been a magnet for geologists, travellers and outside lovers alike. From a hiker’s perspective, this legendary sub-range of the Alps boasts an intensive system of pathways (i.e. “Vias”), and of the numerous trails that crisscross its rugged topography, arguably probably the most spectacular of all of them is the 160 km (99 mi) lengthy Alta Through 2 (AV2).
I hiked the AV2 in late September 2019. Please word that the knowledge under is basically directed in direction of unbiased hikers, somewhat than of us going as a part of organised trekking teams.
Sundown on the Alta Through 2 (Tarptent Aeon Li)
At a Look
Distance: 160 km (99.4 mi)
Length (common): 11 to 14 days (together with a relaxation or climate day)
Issue Degree: Reasonable to difficult
Begin / End:
Which Route?: I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction, although the vast majority of folks appear to hike north to south; which is the best way the route is described within the Cicerone guidebook listed under.
Elevation Achieve: 11,884 m (38,990 ft)
Elevation Loss: 11,423 m (37,477 ft)
Alta Through 2 Overview Map (“Trekking within the Dolomites”, Cicerone Guides)
Getting There & Away:
- Bressanone (Brixen) is accessible by common practice and bus providers all yr spherical. It has an interesting historic centre, a number of supermarkets to fill up on provides, and loads of lodging choices the place you possibly can retailer additional baggage throughout your hike if wanted.
- Croce d’Aune is serviced by common Dolomiti buses to and from Feltre throughout the summer season months, however after mid-September buses come a lot much less ceaselessly. See Rome2Rio or the Dolomiti web site for the present schedule. From Feltre, common practice and bus providers can be found all yr spherical (Notice: In case you are in search of a spot to take pleasure in a post-AV2 celebration, Venice is lower than an hour away from Feltre by bus).
- Tip: To return from the southern terminus again to Bressanone: 1. Bus from Croce d’Aune to Feltre; 2. Connect with bus from Feltre to Trento; 3. Prepare from Trento to Bressanone.
Bressanone Prepare Station – start line of the Alta Through 2.
Season:
- Mid-June to late September. In a median climate yr, September is good. The college vacation crowds are gone, the summer season thunderstorms (typically brief) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are much less crowded.
- Relying on the snow ranges and expertise of the aspirant, the AV2 may also be completed within the late spring or early to mid fall. When mountain climbing at these occasions, it’s possible you’ll require an ice axe and traction gadgets. Additionally word that the majority, if not all the huts will probably be closed, so you have to to hold your entire personal meals and a tent/tarp (Notice: Bivouac Huts stay open throughout the low season / See Lodging part under for particulars),
Stage 8 – Approaching the Passo delle Farangole (2814m), the deep (and steep) notch within the heart of the photograph.
Planning Info
- Guidebook: Gillian Value, Trekking within the Dolomites (Cicerone Guides) | Kindle model obtainable | The ebook consists of logistical beta, trekking notes, elevation profiles, fundamental maps (not detailed sufficient for navigation), city data, and time and distance estimates for every of the 13 levels.
- Maps: 1. Tabacco produces probably the most detailed mountain climbing maps for the Dolomites. 5 1:25,000 topo maps cowl the all the AV2 (i.e. Sheets – 030, 07, 015, 022, 023). Additionally obtainable on-line from Amazon and Omnimap.com. Notice that it’s doable to choose them up when you arrive, however there aren’t any ensures all 5 sheets will probably be obtainable; 2. Alternatively, Kompass produce a 1:50,000 ‘Wanderkarte’ sequence that cowl the route (3 maps complete – Sheets 56, 59, 76).
Yours actually on a foggy Stage 12 between Rifugio Boz and Rifugio Dal Piaz.
- Permits: No permits are required to hike the AV2.
- Language: German and Italian. A fundamental data of both positively turns out to be useful, nevertheless, many of the locals alongside the route know no less than just a little English.
- Cell/Cellular Cellphone Protection: I are inclined to preserve my telephone in flight mode 99% of the time whereas hike, however from what I can inform service within the Dolomites is spotty as soon as you permit the villages/cities. That mentioned, an rising variety of huts now supply Wifi for visitors, and it’s often doable to cost your telephone and/or battery pack whether or not you’re overnighting, or simply stopping in for breakfast or lunch.
Stage 4 – Puez-Odle Nature Park
- Money or Card: Some, although not all huts alongside the AV2 settle for bank cards. Make sure you deliver alongside sufficient money simply in case you’re staying in a single or two that don’t.
- AV2 Planning Abstract: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Learn via this text; 2. Buy the informative Cicerone information; 3. Obtain a GPX file (see above) to your telephone (I exploit the Gaia GPS app), and; 4. Decide up the Tabacco maps.
View from outdoors Rifugio Roe simply after dawn (Stage 5).
Resupply & Water:
- Resupply: The AV2 passes via simply the one village – Malga Ciapela in Stage 6 – the place groceries could be bought. That mentioned, procuring meals alongside the best way is straightforward if you’re mountain climbing throughout the summer season season. Merely eat your fundamental meals on the regularly-spaced Rifugi (mountain huts), at which you may also buy snacks and sandwiches to go. Notice that if you’re inquisitive about mountain climbing out of season, you both have to hold all your personal meals from begin to end, or undertake some detours off route alongside the best way. Notice that the outlets and many of the lodging in Malga Ciapela additionally shut down in mid-September.
- Water: In contrast to in lots of different components of the Alps, H20 is comparatively scarce within the higher areas of the Dolomites. In response to Gillian Value within the Cicerone Information, that is because of the “dolomite-limestone rock (most floor water disappears underground) in addition to the dearth of glaciers and everlasting snowfields.” In sensible phrases, which means hikers ought to at all times concentrate on the place their subsequent likelihood to refill will probably be earlier than setting out on every stage. Notice that bottled water is at all times obtainable for buy within the huts – typically at very costly costs (e.g. €3 for a 1.5 lt bottle – September 2019).
A moist and windy Stage 10 from Rifugio Treviso to Passo Cerada.
Route / Circumstances:
- Overview: The AV2 is a bodily demanding path, which incorporates greater than 23,000 metres (75,459 ft) of mixed altitude acquire and loss. Throughout its course, hikers will negotiate excessive altitude passes, uncovered traverses, steep scree slopes and slim rocky gullies, a few of that are denoted by prolonged sections of Through Ferrata (i.e. “Iron Roads” – protected climbing paths with cables, ladders and iron rungs which are hooked up to rock partitions).
- Historical past: The Through Ferrata are rather more than an exhilarating technique to expertise the Dolomites breathtaking landscapes. In addition they symbolize a visible reminder of the world’s bloody historical past. Throughout WW1, the Dolomites had been the scene of fierce battles between the Italian and Austro Hungarian forces. The Through Ferrata had been put in throughout these years as a method of enabling troops faster entry to the entrance line.
- Do I want a helmet and harness?: It relies upon. The general public I noticed tackling the Through Ferrata sections on the AV2 gave the impression to be utilizing them. Nevertheless, I believe when you’re snug negotiating Class 3 and occasional Class 4 kind terrain chances are high you’ll be tremendous with out them. If heights make you nervous and also you’re not significantly sure-footed, than you’re probably higher off bringing by way of ferrata gear. Notice that if you’re mountain climbing out of season in Could/early June or October, chances are high you would possibly want traction gadgets as properly (i.e. microspikes and even crampons).
- Navigation: The path is properly marked from begin to end. The route is marked with crimson and whites paint splashes, cairns, and the occasional triangle image with a “2” inside it.
Stage 4 – The steep climb up the Val Setus ravine (word the cables and iron rungs)
Going up on Stage 8.
Stage 4 – Topping out at 2610m, after the steep climb up Val Setus. Notice the crimson/white painted flags which mark a lot of the path.
- How Lengthy will it take?: Within the opening “At a Look” part I point out that the common AV2 hiker will take 11 to 14 days. Likelihood is this can embrace a relaxation and/or “rain” day (perhaps two). That mentioned, the period of time it takes to complete the AV2 can fluctuate tremendously relying on quite a few components. Match and skilled hikers carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve head for heights, can comfortably do the AV2 in six or seven days. On the opposite finish of the spectrum, slower of us who get the brief finish of the meteorological stick and who really feel like doing a number of aspect journeys, might take two weeks or extra to finish the path.
- Favorite Sections: My favorite levels on the AV2 had been as follows:
- Stage 5 – Rifugio Pisciadu to Rifugio Castiglioni;
- Stage 8 – Rifugio Mulaz to Rifugio Rosetta;
- Stage 11 – Passo Cereda to Rifugio Boz;
- Stage 12 – Rifugio Boz to Rifugio Dal Piaz
Stage 12 – Rifugio Boz to Rifugio Dal Piaz
Sleeping
Choices on the AV2 embrace staffed mountain huts, bivouac huts, and wild tenting:
- Mountain Huts: The vast majority of backpackers within the Dolomites keep within the rifugi (mountain huts). These staffed refuges could be discovered all through the vary, and infrequently boast unimaginable excessive altitude places, together with spectacular vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and together with in a single day lodging (dormitory and generally personal rooms), additionally they supply breakfast, lunch and dinner. One of the best worth can often be discovered within the half-board supply (mezza pensione), which consists of a three-course dinner, a mattress, and breakfast. As of 2019, half-board prices round 45 to 55 Euros. Notice that members of the Membership Alpino Italiano often pay round 20% lower than non-members, and people which are affiliated with sure different European Alpine or Mountain golf equipment (e.g. UK, Austria, German, French), take pleasure in reciprocal rights. Through the peak season months of July and August, lodging ought to ideally be booked prematurely (particularly if you’re mountain climbing in a gaggle).
- Bivouac Huts: Unmanned, easy refuges which are often open all yr spherical. They’re usually transformed shepherd’s huts or steel cabins, and the amenities can fluctuate tremendously (i.e. In contrast to the Rifugi talked about above, it is best to plan on bringing your personal sleeping bag, mat, and provides). They’re free to make use of, and generally is a godsend when the weather are raging. Some are positioned subsequent to or hooked up to the primary Rifugi, whereas different examples (such because the Bivacco Minazio on Stage 9 and the Bivacco Feltre Bodo on Stage 11 – See photograph under) are located in additional remoted locales.
Stage 4 – Rifugio Puez – Fashionable with day hikers making the brief stroll in for lunch from Passo Gardena.
Stage 11 – Bivacco Feltre-Bodo
Stage 13 – The ultimate hut of the AV2 – Rifugio Dal Piaz
- Wild Tenting: Common readers of ‘The Mountaineering Life’ knew this bit was coming. Whereas I loved consuming breakfasts and lunches within the huts throughout my time on the AV2 (and AV1), I prevented in a single day stays within the huts. The primary causes for that is had been that: A. I don’t sleep properly in dormitories, and; B. If I’m mountain climbing within the mountains I choose to sleep outdoors at any time when doable. That being the case, I did what I virtually at all times do – arrange camp at sundown and left the next morning earlier than dawn.
- Is Wild Tenting Authorized within the Dolomites?: Formally talking, “tenting” – which is seemingly outlined in Italy as staying in the identical tent website for greater than 48 hours – is strictly prohibited. Then again, the “in a single day bivouac” – establishing late and leaving early the next morning is allowed (or no less than tolerated) so long as you apply LNT ideas. See the next article on the hikedolomites.com web site for a extra detailed breakdown.
- Virtually talking, I discovered wild tenting within the Dolomites to be much like different Alpine areas I’ve hiked via through the years – that’s, so long as you arrange late in a stealthy spot, depart at daybreak the following day, and apply LNT ideas always, there aren’t any points. Throughout my journey I met a handful of different campers who like myself encountered no issues following this technique. Certainly, a German couple I met at Passo Cerada, really mentioned that they’d repeatedly acquired recommendation from the rifugi employees as to the place they may arrange close by, so as in order that they may eat each dinner and breakfast on the huts.
Campsite close to Val Lasties (in response to legend, the dwelling place of witches (and wayfaring middle-aged Australians)) on Stage 5.
Camp spot on Stage 8, about 40 min hike from Rifugio Rosetta.
Last Ideas for the AV2
1. Carry a light-weight pack – There aren’t quite a lot of flat sections on the AV2, and the lighter your pack is, the better the lengthy and steep descents will probably be. Moreover, a light-weight pack permits for larger freedom of motion and enhances your stability whereas negotiating the uncovered Through Ferrata sections. Notice that that is really one of many major advantages of staying completely within the huts – you possibly can hike and not using a tent, sleeping bag and cooking/soaking gear.
2. Timing Your Days: As is the case just about everywhere in the Alps, many of the hikers you’ll encounter appear to start their mountain climbing day round 8 – 9 am, and end someday between 2 and 4 pm, once they arrive at their pre-reserved hut. Because of this the paths are sometimes hiker-free throughout what I take into account to be the very best occasions of the day (i.e. early morning and late afternoon). From my perspective, herein lies the best good thing about carrying your personal shelter – freedom. The liberty to come up at daybreak when the birds are singing, and stroll in solitude underneath an infinite ceiling of rising blue. The identical applies to sundown, when the temps are cooler, wildlife reemerging and the sky is popping fifty shades of crimson. These are the occasions once I most need to be out on the path. Not essentially to cowl extra miles, however as a substitute as a result of it makes me really feel like I’m extra part of the each day miracle that’s unfolding throughout me.
3. My AV2 Technique: FWIW, right here’s a tough breakdown of my each day schedule throughout my six days on the AV2:
- Begin my mountain climbing day at daybreak.
- Often I’d be camped 30 min to an hour from the following hut, which I’d intention at reaching by 8am on the newest for a morning meal.
- Breakfasts – Normally, brekky on the huts was a combined bag. The nice ones included a buffet of cereals, bread, cheeses, meats, a number of cups of espresso, and value round €9 or €10. The not-so-great ones had been of the continental selection consisting of bread, butter, jam, a espresso, and that’s about it. These price €7 or €8 and I invariably left hungry………probably not, as in these instances I’d purchase one thing additional to go.
- Lunches – Upon leaving after breakfast I knew kind of how lengthy it might take me to get to the following hut, the place I might cease for a noon/mid-afternoon meal. So long as I acquired there by 2 to 230 pm, I at all times knew they’d nonetheless be serving. Lunches on the Rifugi had been generally expensive, however at all times good, with scorching meals setting you again wherever between €10 and €16. I often added a dessert and a few beers, after which I waddled out €20 to €30 lighter in pocket (however content material of abdomen).
- Dinner – I’d usually depart my lunch cease with one or two sandwiches (and an overpriced chocolate) to tide me over for the remainder of the day. my maps, I’d have in my thoughts the areas the place I may probably discover a good tenting spot, at which level I’d typically arrive round sundown. The subsequent day I’d get up and do it yet again………..
Cairns and crimson sunrises – Stage 9, AV2.
Associated Posts
Disclosure: This submit comprises some affiliate hyperlinks, which implies ‘The Mountaineering Life’ receives a small fee if you buy an merchandise after clicking on one of many hyperlinks. This comes at no extra price to the reader and helps to assist the web site in its persevering with objective to create high quality content material for backpackers and hikers.
