When most cruisers contemplate a Croatian crusing across the Adriatic, they choose to go to the nation’s southern coast gems: exuberant Cut up, the nation’s second-largest metropolis and doubtless the perfect place to view buzzing Dalmatian life, or Dubrovnik, the traditional walled fortress with its stately baroque buildings.
I enterprise north to the stylish Adriatic seaside resort city of Opatija, positioned on the foot of the Ucka mountains, seemingly a world away from the glitzy southern vacationer hotspots. Through the Austrian-Hungarian empire, Opatija was residence to the elite, a lot of whom resided in its belle epoque villas.
My crusing is aptly titled “Greatest Stored Secret Kvarner.” It’s one in every of many cruises provided by Croatian-owned Katerina Line. The corporate’s mannequin is to go to new locations every day with sufficient time on every island to discover historical past, tradition, and gastronomy, climate allowing. You additionally make one or two swim stops every day to swim stops the place you may paddleboard or snorkel the opaque Adriatic Sea. Every night, you spend the night time at a unique port, providing an genuine small island lifestyle.
[All photos credit Nick Kontis[
KATERINA LINE: A FAMILY BUSINESS
Finding an almost wholly family-run business in the cruise industry is rare, yet Katerina Line is just that. Matriarch Katica Hauptfeld, the founder and CEO, has a journey in the travel industry that dates back to the former Yugoslavia and started Katerina Line in 1996, shortly after the war. The forward-thinking Hauptfeld convinced ship owners to consider seven-day sailings to different islands on continuous journeys instead of sailing back and forth to one port. Katerina Line is an agency and owns no ships. Small private companies own over 60 boats, contracting with the cruise leader of Croatia.
Her son Daniel is the director of marketing, while her daughter Anamaria is the director of the cruise division. The company is gaining recognition worldwide with a blistering rise in visitors from the United States and Canada.
MS NAUTILUS
Katerina Line offers twice weekly seven-day sailings departing on Saturdays and Wednesdays. As with the Eastern Mediterranean Sea, including the Adriatic, Croatia cruise season begins in May and culminates in late October.
My small ship sailing is on the 2019-built, 164-foot-long MS Nautilus. The wooden motorized sailboat boasts 18 spacious cabins and can accommodate 36 guests.
Joining Captain Duje are two sailors. The small staff consists of two cooks, one housekeeper, two waitstaff, one barman, and Tatiana, our cruise director and leader.
Modern cabins are furnished with air conditioning, safe deposit box, wardrobe closet, nightstand, a chair, and sofas. Bathrooms feature showers and hair dryers.
As my sailing is nearing the end of the sailing season, we are a close-knit group of 16 passengers from a collection of countries that include the U.S., Great Britain, Denmark, Serbia, Australia, and Austria, allowing for close encounters, making new friendships at the restaurant-bar communal area over meals, including a buffet breakfast. Three-course lunches include delicious Croatian dishes. Some onboard dinners, including the captain’s dinner, are also in the dining area.
The top deck features panoramic views of the Croatian coastline, a jacuzzi, sunbeds, and deck chairs. Paddleboards, masks, fins, and snorkels are stored for swim stops
BE FLEXIBLE
The mantra of expedition cruises is “If weather permits.” As on all expedition sailings, the captain reserves the right to change routes and stopovers due to inclement weather or other unforeseen conditions. This flexibility ensures your safety and comfort, allowing for the best possible experience despite unexpected challenges.
Such was the case on my October 5 departure when our knowledgeable cruise director, Tatiana, advised us that due to an incoming storm. Krk, which was to be our first stop, is now the last, and we begin with an afternoon exploring Venetian-style Cres. We now traverse from Opatija, Cres, Mali Losinj, Kornati National Park, Zadar, Rab, Krk, and return to Opatija. The captain’s dinner, generally scheduled at the end of the sailing, changes to day one as the entire trip operates in reverse.
HIGHLIGHTS
CRES
Venetian-style and sparsely populated Cres is a short sailing an hour from the mainland. Upon arrival, you might believe that you’ve actually entered Italy. We arrived in the late afternoon to explore Croatia’s second-largest island. Strolling the port town, also known as Cres, flaunts an Italian feel throughout the picturesque fishing village. The Venetians built much of the old city, featuring sublime palaces and churches
MALI LOSINJ
A narrow bridge connects the islands of Cres and Losinj, known as “the Sunshine Island,” the largest archipelago in the Adriatic Sea. Following a morning swim stop, we visit another popular destination of the landlocked Austrian-Hungarian empire: the largest town on Losinj Island, Mali Losinj, an enchantress retaining its fabled past. An impressive line of 19th-century captain’s houses threads the seafront. One of the island’s popular sites is the Museum of Apoxyomenos, which showcases an ancient bronze statue of an athlete, one of eight worldwide.
KORNATI NATIONAL PARK
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Kornati National Park covers 85 square miles and includes 89 islands with vertical cliffs facing the open sea. We sipped cocktails on the top deck, which offered spellbinding views of the Istrian peninsula. Sali is a popular tourist region and fishing village on Dugi Otok island. Telascica Nature Park in the Nature 2000 area preserves natural habitats to ensure endangered species throughout the EU protect natural habitats.
ZADAR
A full day is needed to explore Zadar’s treasure trove. Situated at the site of the Roman forum, the church of St. Donatus dates back to the 9th century and is one of the many highlights of the capital of Dalmatia. We visit the unique museum of ancient glass at the city walls adjacent to the harbor. Zadar Cathedral is the biggest in Dalmatia. Climbing to the top of the cathedral tower provides sweeping views of the town and port below.
Join locals and tourists at dusk for a walk along the Zadar promenade to experience what Alfred Hitchcock once called “the most beautiful sunset in the world.”
RAB
In Croatia, Rab is known as the “island of love.” In 2008, due to its diverse landscape, towering cliffs among a forested area with groomed walking trails led to its declaration as a geopark. Take advantage of the island’s specialty dessert, “Rapska Torta,” or Rab Cake. The addictive spiral treat’s main ingredients are almonds and maraschino liqueur. In the evening, climb Kamenjak hill for an eye-popping caravan of fiery hues. Its narrow streets, lined with stirring bars and cafes, authentically show locals relaxing after work. Dine on Kvarner scampi, which Michelin mentioned as the best in the world.
KRK
Known as the “golden island,” Krk is the largest island in Croatia, connected to the mainland by a nearly one-mile-long toll bridge. The buzz begins along the animated waterfront promenade of Krk town, lined with galleries, souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, and cafes. The 12th-century Krk Cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is a highlight of the island. A bus ride takes guests to 900-year-old Vrbnik village for wine tasting. Vrbnicka Zlahtina is a well-known, high-quality dry white wine made exclusively on Krk Island. Another Krk delicacy is pršut, which is Croatian smoked prosciutto.
KATERINA’S KEIGHT HOTEL
The family business recently became more impressive with the tour operator’s opening of the Keight Hotel in Opatija, its hometown. K8 is a pun for Kate. Katica’s lucky number is eight, the symbol for infinity turned 90 degrees. The hotel is part of the Hilton Curio label’s 132 hotels worldwide.
TATIANA’S PRO TIP
“Just as in Greece in the busy months of July and August, while the south of Croatia is overrun with summer family travel, the weather is exceptional in Opatija when sailing the Kvarner islands,” the expert reminds me.
A small ship cruise to Croatia’s road-less traveled Kvarner islands is an unforgettable adventure.
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