Since its inception over 30 years in the past, the Petzl GRIGRI has been the undisputed champ of assisted belay gadgets. I used to be an early convert and have used each different assisted braking machine since. However, attempt as I would, I at all times reverted to the GRIGRI.
The GRIGRI has served me splendidly over the past 3 a long time, nevertheless it’s not with out quirks. To make use of it accurately for lead belaying, a climber should undertake a wierd and initially awkward methodology. The belayer should maintain the brake strand of the rope whereas resting the machine on the aspect of the index finger.
In the meantime, the thumb prevents the cam from partaking when paying out slack for a clip. The brake hand is doing three issues directly, and to me, the connection to the machine at all times feels unfastened.
I admit that when testing different assisted belay gadgets, I’m so used to the GRIGRI methodology that essentially the most vital hurdle was rewiring my mind not to do it. However I did give each different machine an prolonged and honest shot. And, effectively, again to the GRIGRI I went till now.
For this first-look evaluate, I examined the Edelrid Pinch throughout an Edelried operate in Seattle and Squamish, British Columbia, Canada. I additionally used it regionally for just a few weeks in Austin alongside different assisted belay gadgets. All of this testing was completed in gyms to make the most of the extra managed and constant surroundings since I used to be comparability testing.
In short: The Edelrid Pinch is my new go-to belay machine. Each assisted belay machine has compromises, however the Pinch has the right alchemy of traits for me. Admittedly, it additionally handles most carefully to a GRIGRI, and adopted familiarity is an enormous plus. The Edelrid Pinch additionally connects on to the belay loop, delivering benefits that vaulted the machine to the highest of my checklist.
Edelrid Pinch Preliminary Inspection
The Edelrid Pinch could be very a lot bodily like a Petzl GRIGRI, however the physique of the machine is way shorter. The fitting aspect plate swings open, however a flat button unlocks the operate. The rope snakes round an eccentric cam, similar to a GRIGRI. And it has comparable markings to point which aspect of the cam the climber and brake sides of the rope go. The cam is metal, whereas the plates are anodized aluminum.
A inflexible plastic and steel deal with on the left plate controls the speed of descent when reducing a climber. Like a GRIGRI+, it has an anti-panic operate. If a belayer pulls the lever again too far, the machine locks the rope to stop the descent.
If the panic cease engages, the belayer merely releases the deal with to begin the reducing course of over. To override the panic cease, the belayer pulls the deal with again additional. Edelrid additionally features a screw that may completely disable the anti-panic operate.
The similarities to a GRIGRI begin to disseminate from there. The largest divergence is though the aspect plates have a gap for a locking carabiner, the Edelrid Pinch can connect on to the belay loop so long as it’s lower than 3/4-inch vast.
There’s a metal grooved becoming on the Pinch, the place the brake aspect of the rope exits. That is designed to create friction to assist whereas reducing on skinnier ropes. It additionally eliminates the black aluminum oxide that’s left on ropes once they run by means of aluminum.
The same feel and look of the Pinch in comparison with the GRIGRI was plain to me. Edelrid officers claimed it wasn’t a design purpose. However I didn’t think about it a detrimental in any respect. Proper from the start, I felt extra at dwelling with the Pinch than some other assisted machine due to the familiarity.
Edelrid specifies ropes between 8.5mm and 10.5mm work with the Pinch, and it’s EN twin licensed. The Edelrid Pinch weighs a verified 8.3 ounces. It measures 4 3/8″ x 2 3/4″ x 1 3/8″, and the MSRP is $120.
The Edelrid Pinch on Belay
The preliminary feeling of belaying each on lead and top-rope climbing with the Edelrid Pinch was much like a GRIGRI, exterior of some advantageous variations.
Direct Connection to Belay Loop
I selected to straight connect the Pinch to my belay loop to eradicate “a hyperlink within the chain of demise.” The philosophy I exploit for climbing is the less items within the lifeline, the much less that may go unsuitable.
On this case, the elimination of the locking carabiner additionally meant that there was no potential for cross-loading a carabiner (the load score is considerably decreased). Ditching the locking carabiner additionally produced a number of efficiency enhancements.
Probably the most noticeable was that the direct anchoring to the belay loop stored the Pinch in a extra constant place and orientation. It didn’t flop round, twist, get oriented sideways, or rise and fall with the rope almost as a lot as gadgets utilizing a belay carabiner. It was rather more nonetheless, and that delivered a safer feeling as a belayer.
I knew the place the machine was and trusted that it was oriented accurately. With different assisted belay gadgets, I shaped the behavior of frivolously holding it between the edges of my fingers. This assured me that it was oriented accurately, and I may manipulate it rapidly since I may really feel the situation and orientation. These measures had been pointless with the Pinch.
One other distinct benefit of straight connecting to the belay loop was the decreased quantity of slack in the whole system. Edelrid claims the shortening of the “chain” between the harness and belay machine leads to about 8 to 12 extra inches of rope paid out per arm motion. I agreed with this estimate.
Lastly, the decrease positioning of the straight linked Edelrid Pinch produced a way more snug expertise. I didn’t have the tendency to shrug my shoulders to maintain my fingers within the right place. Something I wanted to do with the Pinch felt extra pure when it was straight above my belay loop as an alternative of upper up.
What About That Button?
One concern that a few of my climbing companions initially identified was the flat button could be too straightforward to press. The legitimate fear was this is able to result in the Pinch opening by accident whereas connected to the belay loop.
It’s not noticeable upon informal inspection, however the button is sort of a see-saw. It pivots within the center, so it could solely be actuated by intentionally urgent the highest half. Satirically, the companions who expressed this concern had issue opening the Pinch for the primary time. I needed to present them that solely one-half of the underside unlocked the aspect plate.
My trustworthy opinion is that I’ll by no means by accident actuate this button. Not solely does it require deliberate use, however the spring rigidity is critical, and it needed to be pushed right into a recession.
Feeding Slack
With the Edelrid Pinch, I may rapidly and simply feed out slack to the main climber. I may do the identical with a GRIGRI, however the Pinch required much less brake-hand trickery.
GRIGRI Brake Hand Shenanigans
To make use of a GRIGRI, as Petzl recommends, the belayer perches the left aspect plate ridge on the index finger whereas sustaining a grip on the brake aspect of the rope with the remaining three fingers. The thumb then presses down on the cam within the space between the strands of the rope to maintain it from partaking because the non-brake hand pulls slack.
Though this turned second nature over the a long time, as an expert information, I discovered it very troublesome to show to first-time customers. And, truthfully, I see improper use of the GRIGRI on a regular basis. This shockingly contains dropping the brake strand to seize the machine with the whole hand to govern the cam.
Additionally, my left-handed climbing associates all however refuse to steer belay with a GRIGRI, because the indicated finger lip is barely on the precise aspect plate. Petzl admits that its specified left-handed method is “not as snug or fluid” because the right-handed.
Pinch Lead Belay Methodology
Though the Edelrid Pinch requires a method that differs from unassisted belay gadgets, it was a tad less complicated and extra pure feeling than the Petzl GRIGRI methodology.
There was no must perch the machine on my index finger, and all 4 fingers had been in a position to grasp the brake aspect of the rope. I observed I didn’t want the positional cue or the soundness of my index finger, because the machine wasn’t flopping round almost as a lot as a GRIGRI. I used the brake strand because the positional cue.
Once I wanted slack, the thumb of the brake hand pressed the cam behind the lead aspect of the rope. This can be a a lot bigger goal space than on a GRIGRI and encompasses the reducing lever, too.
All this felt rather more pure and required fewer shenanigans with the brake hand. It was a extra “gross” motion and didn’t require the complexity or accuracy of the GRIGRI methodology. And my brake hand solely did two issues as an alternative of three.
I feel it’s notable that I reverted to the GRIGRI methodology at first. I perched my index finger on the aspect plate of the Pinch and used my thumb like I’ve for many years. And it labored tremendous. However as soon as I bought over my routine use sample, it was considerably of a aid to not use my index finger in any respect.
The direct join operate of the Pinch aided on this. I didn’t really feel the necessity to have a hand on the machine until I used to be feeding slack, because it was comparatively stationary. Additionally, the Pinch methodology is similar for left-handers; no workarounds.
I can truthfully say that I rarely botch a frontrunner’s clip with a GRIGRI. However the right method for paying slack was a lot simpler to study on the Pinch than on some other assisted machine, the GRIGRI included. This made it interesting for me to make use of with first-timers or anybody newer to steer belaying.
The identical errors could be made with the Pinch as on the GRIGRI. For instance, belayers may nonetheless seize the unit and maintain the cam down with the whole brake hand, dropping the brake aspect of the rope. However, once more, it was simpler to show new climbers on the Pinch, so hopefully, dangerous habits don’t get a begin.
The Edlerid PInch nonetheless wasn’t as intuitive to make use of as a typical ATC-style tube machine, nevertheless it was simpler to make use of than some other assisted machine that I’d examined to this point. (I began testing the Petzl Neox final week, however after just a few periods, I nonetheless choose the Pinch. Time will inform.)
Decreasing the Climber
I had no points reducing the climber with the Edelrid Pinch, nor did I’ve any points with the anti-panic mode. But it surely’s price noting that I additionally had no points with the identical mode on the Petzl GRIGRI+, in contrast to all my climbing companions. Not as soon as did I really feel the necessity to override this operate throughout testing.
I discovered that the toothed metal plate added management to reducing the climber, no matter rope diameter, however noticeably extra so with smaller ropes. I additionally appreciated that the Pinch didn’t twist my ropes like looping the rope over the aspect plate on a GRIGRI can. And, over time, I’m positive I might additionally recognize the pinch not depositing black aluminum oxide on my cords.
In the long run, reducing with the Pinch was a non-issue, which means I by no means observed or needed to intentionally take into consideration anything in the course of the motion of reducing. It felt easy, simply controllable, and nothing out of the odd, even with smaller ropes.
Belaying and reducing a climber on a prime rope was the identical. No points, no surprises.
Catching Falls With the Edelrid Pinch
I do know I sound like a damaged document, however arresting falls on the Pinch felt similar to doing so on a GRIGRI. The machine locked the rope rapidly, and I unloaded my ft as standard to supply a delicate catch. There have been no surprises and nothing to report aside from it labored because it ought to.
I attempted just a few rope diameters, and as anticipated, the smaller the wire, the softer the catch. I do know a few of this was because of the higher elongation of thinner ropes, however there may even have been extra of a delay within the closing arresting of the rope. That is much like tube-style gadgets because the floor space for frictional forces is much less with thinner cords.
What I Didn’t Check within the First Look Evaluation
Since I solely did comparative testing indoors, I didn’t take a look at just a few issues with the Edelrid Pinch.
I didn’t take a look at belaying a second up on a multipitch route. I’ve completed so many instances with a GRIGRI, and I think it will really feel very comparable.
I additionally didn’t take a look at rappelling a single line. Once more, I feel it will really feel very very similar to doing so with a GRIGRI. And probably, I might wish to use the included screw to disengage the panic cease function if it was going to be a daily exercise.
Additionally, I don’t have a bead on sturdiness but. However the Pinch is in my pack and can undoubtedly accompany me open air when our season picks up once more in just a few months. If I uncover something notable, I’ll replace this evaluate.
Conclusions on the Edelrid Pinch Assisted-Braking Belay Machine
The Edelrid Pinch is the assisted belay machine that now lives on my harness and in my pack. As I acknowledged, I’ve examined each semi-automatic belay machine because the unique Petzl GRIGRI. After the testing interval, I at all times put the GRIGRI again in my gear loop.
However not this time. The Edelrid Pinch has all the precise attributes for me to dismount the champ of belay gadgets. Its operation and really feel had been reassuringly much like these of the GRIGRI I’ve grown accustomed to over a long time. The direct-connect capability and decreased brake hand shenanigans had been large enhancements. Notably, the Edelrid Pinch received a 2024 ISPO award, a minimum of partially for these causes.
All of the kudos to Petzl for its actually game-changing GRIGRI. It’s nonetheless such an awesome machine. However the Edelrid Pinch received me over, and it was a gargantuan shift. I’m shelving 3 a long time of GRIGRI use, belief, and familiarity.
There’s a brand new sheriff on the town for me. You’ll be capable to test it out your self on the finish of August.
