Assessment: ATENO Cook dinner & Deli, Athens, Greece


Within the historic commerial district of Athens, ATENO Cook dinner & Deli celebrates the best Greek produce. Housed in a nineteenth Century constructing on Aiolou Road, a central artery in Athens for hundreds of years. this all-day restaurant-cum-deli embodies the revival of commerce and social life within the space. Devoted to Greek delicacies, ATENO showcases premium produce sourced from throughout Greece after a few years of meals scouting.

The menu relies on this produce, which can also be accessible for buy within the delicatessan. Whether or not you’re in search of a singular salumeria, or the best honey, otherwise you’re craving for conventional Santorini fava, this deli provides a carefully-curated choice of merchandise famend for his or her flavour and dietary worth, every telling their very own distinctive origin story, and thoroughly chosen for exactly that motive.

ATENO, symbolised by a emblem that creatively merges Doric columns right into a fork formation, is the brainchild of Spyros Liakos, one of many founding Cooks at Cookoovaya and Proprietor of the acclaimed Travolta restaurant. Having been warmly greeted like outdated pals, we’re proven to an outoor desk – an ideal spot for people-watching and soaking within the vibrant avenue lifetime of Athens, whereas anticipating the meal that lies forward.

The meals

The primary dish to reach is a chilly meat platter that resembles extra of a tower. All of the meats at ATENO are sourced from historical Greek breeds just like the black pig, and paired with the best Greek wines from their cellar.

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A well-liked dish loved in lots of Greek properties is lentils with feta and tomato. At ATENO, the natural Beluga lentils with a tomato paste pesto and feta croquettes, flavoured with an orange French dressing, are a fantastic tackle this traditional. Legumes have been a cornerstone of the Greek Mediterranean weight loss program since historical occasions and, with dishes like this, it’s simple to know why.

The showstopper is ATENO’s novel tackle the traditional Greek salad. This indispensable ingredient of each typical lunch or dinner in Greece has a pleasant new twist – a crammed tomato, with a cucumber broth, Cretan barley rusks and an indulgent feta cream, accompanied with fermented bread toasted on coal.

Click on on the video to look at the magic unfold…

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To fulfill our pescatarian son, we additionally loved sharing a singular tackle moussaka – a shrimp crammed aubergine with onion and béchamel, topped with Parmesan crisps.

We unanimously agreed that the chickpeas with Bacalhau fish served in a crust of lemon leaves, rosemary and a lemon cream was a triumph – a harmonious mix of earthy, salty, citrusy and natural flavors with a deliciously creamy and barely tangy end.

The authentically-Greek lamb fricasse with tender lamb, seasonal greens and a celery root cream was a wealthy and equally well-rounded dish, complemented by the refined sweetness of the cream sauce.

At this level within the night, the Chef (extra on him later) kindly got here out to fulfill us, and we stated how a lot we’d be having fun with the meal. We have been persuaded to strive a few the desserts between us. I’m not normally an enormous one for puddings however the ekmek tsoureki – a well-liked Greek dessert – topped with a Madagascan vanilla cream and black cherries served with kaimaki ice cream, was a pleasant mix of candy, creamy and barely spiced flavours.

Equally, the butterscotch ‘halvas’ with cinnamon ice cream topped with a tahini halva cream froth felt equally decadent.

The chef

Chef Nikos Karathanos grew up in Athens and honed his craft on the Le Monde Institute. He received his first Michelin Star on the age of simply 27, making him the youngest Greek ever to attain this honour. He has labored in many alternative eating places, alongside a number of the world’s finest cooks: Jérome Serres, Lefteris Lazarou, Apostolos Trastelis and Nickos Skrempos. On the primary flooring of ATENO, you’ll be able to see into his kitchen and veryquickly getting a way of his ardour and boundless power for his culinary artistry.

The atmosphere

The power at ATENO Cook dinner & Deli is palpable. From the nice and cozy welcome to the inventive aptitude within the dishes, to the bustling avenue and the thriving deli counters, each facet exudes an infectious liveliness, making this new up-and-coming venue really stand out. The relaxed nature of the outside seating, alongside a energetic pedestrianised avenue, extends inside the place the deli counters, laden with an array of recent, artisanal merchandise, act as a focus. ATENO captures the essence of latest Athens – dynamic, numerous, and lively – but offering an inviting, leisurely area the place food-lovers can savour inventive delicacies in a classy and vibrant surroundings. Further indoor seating on the primary flooring, near the kitchen, is accessible for these uncommon events when the climate is much less beneficial.

The price

A wide range of chilly meats is accessible, priced between €9 and €13; cheeses vary from €6 to €12 while dips are provided at €6 to €8. For one thing extra substantial, vegetarian dishes vary from €11 to €24, whereas meat dishes are priced from €12 to €33, the latter being for the sirloin steak with a truffle mash and mushroom cream sauce, topped with mushrooms marinated in aged Corinth vinegar. Desserts are priced at €9 and €10.

Produce can also be in fact accessible for buy within the deli.

The ultimate verdict

ATENO Cook dinner & Deli is a particular discover, and a fantastic instance of ‘bistronomy’ – the relaxed atmosphere of a bistro fused with the gastronomy of a singular Greek eating expertise, completely balancing an informal ambiance with culinary excellence.

Whether or not you’re there for dinner, swinging by for a espresso, grabbing a sandwich made with the very best Greek salami, or searching for high quality produce for a meal again residence, ATENO can cater for all of your wants. The seek for the best merchandise throughout Greece has already been executed for you, and dropped at Aiolou Road. All that continues to be is so that you can go to.

Disclosure: This submit is sponsored by Ateno Cook dinner & Deli.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxurious Journey Weblog and has labored within the journey trade for greater than 30 years. He’s Winner of the Improvements in Journey ‘Finest Journey Influencer’ Award from WIRED journal. Along with different awards, the weblog has additionally been voted “one of many world’s finest journey blogs” and “finest for luxurious” by The Telegraph.

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