We weren’t purported to be headed to the Marquesas Islands. However when the captain of Star Breeze introduced a dramatic change within the itinerary as a consequence of a hurricane bearing down on Tahiti, I paid shut consideration. “It’s going to be very windy, very moist and never very nice if we keep the course we deliberate,” Captain Simon Terry informed me. “As you possibly can admire, our intention is to be sure you stay comfy and secure. So, we’ve taken the choice we’re going to be heading for an inaugural name within the Marquesas.”
I in all probability wasn’t the one one who instantly launched a Google map on their cellphone to determine the place we had been being diverted to. However the three sudden days we spent within the Marquesas Islands proved to be a scrumptious crash course in a spot many people couldn’t have beforehand situated on a map. Right here’s what I found.
Lesson Discovered, #1: French Polynesia actually sprawls
Located roughly midway between South America and Australia, Tahiti is the most effective identified and largest of this South Pacific island chain — it’s additionally most populated, and the start line for many voyages. However French Polynesia is not only Tahiti, neither is it comprised of solely the Society Islands, the archipelago that stars the nation’s most seductive landings, Bora Bora and Moorea. In reality, French Polynesia is made up of 5 distinct archipelagos, which additionally consists of the Austral Islands, the Gambier Islands, the Tuamotu Archipelago, and the Marquesas Islands. A complete of 118 islands are unfold throughout a swath of ocean 5 instances the scale of France.
French Polynesia is already fairly distant. Once we set off for the Marquesas it turned out we had been headed 900 miles northeast of Tahiti. By some measures, the Marquesas are probably the most remoted islands on this planet — farther from any continental landmass on this planet (the closest shoreline is Mexico, greater than 3,000 miles away). Because of this, whereas the Marquesas have many cultural traits in frequent with different South Pacific islands, together with Easter Island, these islands have developed an id that’s distinctive even inside French Polynesia.
Lesson Discovered, #2: The Marquesas are actually distinct from different elements of French Polynesia
Most islands of French Polynesia are atolls — the remnants of historic volcanoes that eroded over the millennia, forsaking solely an evanescent fringing coral reef, white-sand seashores, and sometimes nothing taller than the palm bushes. Youthful islands, like Tahiti, have solely simply began — in geologic phrases — the erosion course of, so their topography remains to be mountainous. Additionally volcanic, the Marquesas are the youngest islands of French Polynesia and their outlines are outlined by craggy peaks, some towering greater than 4,000 toes on Nuku Hiva, the most important of the Marquesas. As a result of coral reefs are few, the seashores I noticed are largely black sand.
There may be additionally a distinct local weather. Although situated a lot nearer to the equator, the Marquesas are dryer than the remainder of the island chain, and droughts usually are not unusual. In distinction to the remainder of French Polynesia, extremely variable rainfall falls primarily Could by way of July, whereas the northern hemisphere’s winter months are the driest interval. As Star Breeze pulled into Taioha’e Bay, the principle harbor on Nuku Hiva, I swooned because the clouds step by step lifted to disclose the island’s wonderful, muscular define, riven by sharp ridges and deep valleys.
Lesson discovered, #3: probably the most stunning discoveries within the Marquesas
As a result of our arrival to Nuku Hiva was an unplanned inaugural name for Windstar, the Star Breeze workforce scrambled to place collectively a shore tour that might take within the island’s main sights. There was a fleet of a number of dozen 4x4s to greet us, most of them pushed by ladies, and most of whom didn’t communicate English — the 17 phrases of French I recall from highschool got here in helpful. At every cease although, an English-speaking information named Annie offered beautiful interpretation for our convoy. We began on the Notre-Dame Cathedral, constructed within the Nineteen Nineties on a website sacred to the Marquesans who got here right here about 2,000 years in the past. The open-air church was constructed utilizing stones from every of the Marquesas’ inhabited islands and big picket sculptures depicted the stations of the cross.
Steep, inexperienced, and bathed in mist and thriller, our drive took us up and over the island to the village of Taipivai, the place we adopted a river lined with properties, passing all kinds of bushes, flush with breadfruit, grapefruit, mango, papaya, and banana. Pigs, horses, and numerous chickens wandered unattended. If I make it again to Nuku Hiva I’ll look into hikes resulting in towering waterfalls, horseback excursions, mountain climbing and diving.
The second largest of the Marquesas is Hiva Oa, and once you pull into its bay, you would possibly discover you’re anchored on the fringe of a half-submerged historic volcanic crater, with one half of the rim rising as much as a pointy fang known as Mt. Feani. I skipped the tour of Hiva Oa in favor of exploring on foot — on reflection, I missed out, as they visited a number of of the island’s archeological websites, which presently sit on UNESCO’s listing of potential World Heritage websites. The island additionally has Polynesia’s richest assortment of stone tiki scattered all through the island. As an alternative, on a sizzling day with little breeze, I contented myself with a swim on the seaside fronting the island’s important city, Atuona. Usually a bit rougher, I used to be informed, on the day I visited it was virtually lake calm. The sand right here is silky black, with tiny flecks of gold that glitter within the daylight.
One of many smallest inhabited islands within the Marquesas is Fatu Hiva, however alas, Star Breeze was not capable of name right here as a consequence of excessive seas that made a switch to tender boats too rocky. It’s probably the most dramatic, fearsome, and alluring locations I’ve virtually been — 33 sq. miles of superior cliffs plunging to the ocean, topped by razor-thin ridges that result in deep, slender valleys. The volcanic isle appears to be like uninhabitable, however about 600 individuals stay right here, we had been informed, and a 10-mile grime path with a whole bunch of twists and turns snakes from the port of Omoa on the south finish to Hanavave within the north.
Lesson discovered, #4: the Marquesas appeal to an uncommon sort of celeb
Okay, the Marquesas usually are not the place to go to in quest of celebrities, however a number of notables have made their technique to these far-flung islands. Norwegian ethnographer Thor Heyerdahl, who led the Kon Tiki expedition in 1947, lived together with his first spouse on Fatu Hiva, of all locations, instantly after they married. Dwelling off the land in largely primitive circumstances for 15 months, it was right here that Heyerdahl first developed his theories about trans-Oceanic contact between individuals of Polynesia and South American cultures.
On Nuku Hiva, Annie defined how the village of Taipivai is the place creator Herman Melville jumped ship in 1842 and hid amongst cannibal tribes, the place he was accepted into the neighborhood. This expertise was the muse for his ebook, “Typee,” earlier than he went on to jot down “Moby Dick.” I knew the one concerning the white whale, however that earlier ebook would possibly provide an fascinating glimpse into Marquesan tradition and id.
Hiva Oa isn’t any slouch within the name-dropping division. Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin spent the final 8 years of his life right here, first on Tahiti and ultimately Hiva Oa, the place he painted and sculpted with wooden till his loss of life in 1903. The island’s different brush with fame was when Belgian singer-songwriter-actor Jacques Brel, who bought greater than 25 million information, spent a lot of the final 3 years of his life on Hiva Oa — he handed away in 1978. Within the village there are small museums devoted to every, and embrace a reproduction of Gauguin’s home and the precise airplane Brel flew in. I walked up the hill to the small Calvaire Cemetery the place the artists are buried amid frangipani bushes. Each are mentioned to have settled within the Marquesas particularly for his or her isolation, and their graves are easy and particular.
Lesson discovered, #5: as an alternative of touristy procuring websites, you’ll uncover great, locally-made souvenirs
Let nobody inform you the Marquesas are a spot to go searching for souvenirs. However possibly Gauguin and Brel had been drawn to greater than the isolation — it might even have been the Marquesas’ creative legacy: A few of Polynesia’s most revered tattoo artists are mentioned to be from right here, and carving on wooden, bone and stone is famend, crafts that unfold to Hawaii, Easter Island and New Zealand. Looking back, I want I’d spent extra time inspecting the wares accessible within the small galleries on Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. A number of days later, in Bora Bora and Tahiti I discovered galleries promoting the beautiful carvings of the Marquesas, at lofty costs. (There may be additionally a small choice provided within the boutique aboard Star Breeze, at what appeared like truthful costs relative to retailers on the islands.)
I like strolling by way of the grocery shops of distant locations — what are the issues they will’t develop or catch simply within the Marquesas? Happily, what I did discover on the important grocer in Hiva Oa was undoubtedly price bringing house: miel des Marquesas, honey of the islands. I grabbed a pair jars off the shelf, and when gifting one to a buddy at house I mentioned, this is likely to be the purest, most untainted honey you’ll ever style.
Windstar’s Star Breeze presents particular voyages to the Marquesas Islands through its Star Collector: Complete Tahiti and Marquesas Journey and Tahitian Treasures and Magnificent Marquesas.
